The right tool really helps

corvette8n

corvette8n

Well-known member
Picked up a used Snap-on stud remover, was able to remove 14 studs in the same time it took me to get 4 out using the double nut method, only 30 to go.
 
Sorry to rain on your parade...



The last 5 are going to take you longer than all the rest put together. :mad:
 
If the studs fight you AT ALL, so NOT push things, or they will break... and then you're SCREWED.

If there is any chance they might break, back off until you can find a torch that will heat the threads up red hot. This will break the rust bond, and they will back right out.

Good Luck!
 
I agree with you on the collet style stud remover, it is the best tool to use to remove studs without chewing them all up. I broke off the second to last stud on my engine. Then I saw a post from Flathead Jack saying not to exceed 70 lb-ft of torque or bad things might happen. I then used a torch to encourage the last one to loosen.

I would like to understand more about welding a nut to the broken stud to remove it. Can it be successful if the stud is broken below the surface of the block? What welding process needs to be used? I have a 110v mig welder. That may not be enough power for a job like this.
 
JSeery said:
It is not difficult to remove broken studs. Weld on a nut and back them out.
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Your right, it’s amazing how well that works!
In fact if You have a stud that feels like it’s going to break, just cut it off a bit above flush and weld a washer and nut. The heat does the trick.
 
I have tig welded so many that I have lost count.
A tig with a foot pedal is the ticket.When waiting for it to cool quench it with a candle and wait until it is cool to the touch and then use an impact if you have one and out it will come easy.Haven't been stumped 4.40 screws up to 3/4" they all come out. I have made some easy money just have them leave the item and call them back when done.



Ronnie
 
You might be surprised what a little heat and penetrating oil will do too, prior to removal. PM Blaster or kroil. Last block I helped on, removed 3 then the 4th broke, so we stopped. Heated them with just a map torch and soaked them with pm. All the rest came out without issue. Lucky maybe.
 
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GoCatGo said:
Hey Mike Jr. (FL&WVMIKE) It's good to hear from you.
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Thanks! I appreciate it!

As for removing the studs... I stand by what I said.

FL&WVMIKE said:
If the studs fight you AT ALL, so NOT push things, or they will break... and then you're SCREWED.

If there is any chance they might break, back off until you can find a torch that will heat the threads up red hot. This will break the rust bond, and they will back right out.

Good Luck!
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I tore down a 1934 flathead, and it had studs that had been there since it was new. They were soaked in Kroil overnight, and a handheld propane torch was used to heat it up while a stud remover was employed as the base of the stud to try and unscrew it. I did not have a real torch yet, and after a few broke, I was not a happy camper.

A REAL torch works like magic. Heat the stud until the threads are red hot, and it backs right out. This breaks the rust bond, and out it comes, like it was put in yesterday.

I don't have a TIG welder at my disposal, only a MIG. I've used it numerous times to weld nuts to broken bolts with success. The heat from the welding is what breaks the rust bond. A TIG works even better, as a person can add a lot more heat without building up too much material.

Those methods DO work IF you have a welder... especially a TIG.
However, it's a lot better to just skip that step in the first place, and heat the stubborn studs so they back out without any drama.

As for a suitable heat source that will get them hot enough. Forget about a standard hand held propane torch. It might help a smidge, but it's just not enough heat. The block is FAR too large of a heat sink for that. Someone mentioned MAP gas. These bottles are the same size as handheld propane torches, but also include an oxygen cylinder! Walmart may still sell them. They produce some GOOD heat, but the oxygen runs out really fast, so it gets expensive. If you do not have a real oxy/acetylene setup, this could be a GOOD option for limited use. If you buy one, be sure to pick up a couple of extra oxygen cylinders. Ebay or Amazon might be good outlets.

So, if you need to remove head studs, bring the heat for the stubborn studs. If some are broken, find a welder... preferably a TIG, and weld a nut to the stud. If there is a big heat sink... like an engine block... and you have nothing but a MIG... it doesn't hurt to preheat the block/stud with a propane torch the best you can in order to get a good weld.

Good Luck!
 
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RalphM said:
Your right, it’s amazing how well that works!
In fact if You have a stud that feels like it’s going to break, just cut it off a bit above flush and weld a washer and nut. The heat does the trick.
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Yep. The heat from welding zaps the rust down below. It stinks when they break, but fear not if you have a welder handy.

Like someone mentioned, take your time and start spraying them with rust buster oil for a few days if you can wait. A 50/50 mix of ATF/acetone works best followed by Kroil. ATF/Acetone is miles cheaper, but not always convenient.
 
FL&WVMIKE said:
If the studs fight you AT ALL, so NOT push things, or they will break... and then you're SCREWED.

If there is any chance they might break, back off until you can find a torch that will heat the threads up red hot. This will break the rust bond, and they will back right out.

Good Luck!
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Glad you are checking in~
 
FL&WVMIKE said:
If the studs fight you AT ALL, so NOT push things, or they will break... and then you're SCREWED.

If there is any chance they might break, back off until you can find a torch that will heat the threads up red hot. This will break the rust bond, and they will back right out.

Good Luck!
Click to expand...


I agree totally. Not that my opinion matters. But I do agree.
 
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