Thermostat?

I run a 160. I rebuilt the radiator several years ago and had more fins per inch than stock. I was the only car of five that did not overheat on a three week trip to Calgary. I went with the 160 so if the car started to heat I had a 20 degree cushion. It also should put less heat in to the interior.
 
Old retired men sometimes open their mouth when they shouldn’t, so here we go.

Model A’s don’t need thermostats. They were not designed for a thermostat.

They use a syphon driven cooling system. The water pump is mounted at the out flow unlike newer cars. The water pump really only helps cooling at higher speeds. Up until the late 50’s, thermostats would be removed by many newer car owners in the summer months to increase flow of coolant.

Thermostats used in a Model A, that are installed without a by pass, could create a problem with your water pump.

Potential for oil flash on cylinder walls and hot spots with boiling.

The higher you are above sea level, the more likely you could see a problem with boiling.

Even a 160 degree thermostat might not be fully open until coolant reaches +180 degrees.

Google “Rocky Mountain Model A Club Cooling System Seminar ” good info.

Sorry if my comments offend anyone. I feel very strongly on a couple of things that have to do with these cars and a thermostat is one of them. Enjoy.
 
WHN said:
Old retired men sometimes open their mouth when they shouldn’t, so here we go.

Model A’s don’t need thermostats. They were not designed for a thermostat.

They use a syphon driven cooling system. The water pump is mounted at the out flow unlike newer cars. The water pump really only helps cooling at higher speeds. Up until the late 50’s, thermostats would be removed by many newer car owners in the summer months to increase flow of coolant.

Thermostats used in a Model A, that are installed without a by pass, could create a problem with your water pump.

Potential for oil flash on cylinder walls and hot spots with boiling.

The higher you are above sea level, the more likely you could see a problem with boiling.

Even a 160 degree thermostat might not be fully open until coolant reaches +180 degrees.

Google “Rocky Mountain Model A Club Cooling System Seminar ” good info.

Sorry if my comments offend anyone. I feel very strongly on a couple of things that have to do with these cars and a thermostat is one of them. Enjoy.
Click to expand...
Good information.
 
The debate rages on! Its a fact that better combustion happens at higher temps. With temperatures below 75 degrees, my 29 never got over 145. I installed a Vintage Precision housing and 160 degree thermostat. Even with summer temps in the mid 90s, my gauge never exceeds 175. Granted, these are 30 min. trips, not climbing into the surrounding mountains. IIRC by the mid 30s Fords had thermostats from the factory. I've heard the argument "Henry didn't put thermostats in the Model A." He also filled the crankcase with 30 weight non-detergent oil.
 
I’am running 160* stat and when I’ve checked the temperature with pocket gauge, its been about 175*, never over 180*. I don’t drive it alot or start much, so it warms up quickly and burns off condensation sooner :-)
 
I use a 160 degree thermostat, it seems to work ok. I have heard both sides of the discussion and opted for a 160 thermostat.
JMO
Gerry Birch Bay Wa
 
I guess most use a 160, that's what I have now, I was just wondering if I should change to a 180, but since most have the 160, I wont change it.
 
WHN said:
Old retired men sometimes open their mouth when they shouldn’t, so here we go.

Model A’s don’t need thermostats. They were not designed for a thermostat.

They use a syphon driven cooling system. The water pump is mounted at the out flow unlike newer cars. The water pump really only helps cooling at higher speeds. Up until the late 50’s, thermostats would be removed by many newer car owners in the summer months to increase flow of coolant.

Thermostats used in a Model A, that are installed without a by pass, could create a problem with your water pump.

Potential for oil flash on cylinder walls and hot spots with boiling.

The higher you are above sea level, the more likely you could see a problem with boiling.

Even a 160 degree thermostat might not be fully open until coolant reaches +180 degrees.

Google “Rocky Mountain Model A Club Cooling System Seminar ” good info.

Sorry if my comments offend anyone. I feel very strongly on a couple of things that have to do with these cars and a thermostat is one of them. Enjoy.
Click to expand...



hey old timer. don't be afraid to speak. that's how young blokes learn and that's even how old blokes ( like me) also learn.
 
I have cars with one or the other in them. The 160 T/stat runs at about 145 :confused:deg and the 180 at about 175;). With no T/stat, I think they runn too cool, especially at this time of year (winter).
With any T/stat, as the motor warms up, the water in the block passes the T/stat rated temp. Water beeding through the holes in the T/stat allows the warm water to reach it and causes it to open. Once it stats to open, the Gauge reads high as the warm water in the block passes the sensor till there is a surge of cooler water through the engine and the temp gauge drops again. The gauge moves up and down with decreasing amplitude as the T/sat opens and closes a little till it settles on the engine's "happy" temp. A long pull up a hill will give a higher eading for a while but it will settle again quickly to a point where the T/stat is partly open, allowing enough water through to maintain the "happy" temp. The point is that with both, the T/sat is only partly open most of the time and it doesn't take many more degrees for it to open enough more to allow more water through and hence maintain the engine at its (the T/stat's) designed temperature.
 
The ONLY time you DON'T need a thermostat, is if you have a crummy Old Radiator that quickly warms up, on its' OWN!
Remember, the engine is a water HEATER, the radiator is a water COOLER & a thermostat is needed, to co-ordinate the workings of the two systems!
Hope that is SIMPLE enough to be understood!
Early thermostats were prone to failures, that why Henry didn't use them, until some design upgrades made them somewhat MORE RELIABLE. He should have left a NOTE about it, on his Office Wall!
Bill Simple
 
BILL WILLIAMSON said:
The ONLY time you DON'T need a thermostat, is if you have a crummy Old Radiator that quickly warms up, on its' OWN!
Remember, the engine is a water HEATER, the radiator is a water COOLER & a thermostat is needed, to co-ordinate the workings of the two systems!
Hope that is SIMPLE enough to be understood!
Early thermostats were prone to failures, that why Henry didn't use them, until some design upgrades made them somewhat MORE RELIABLE. He should have left a NOTE about it, on his Office Wall!
Bill Simple
Click to expand...

Com-on Bill that's too logical...LOL
Thermostats, oil weight and 6-12 volts are like kids, some work, some don't. it's still up to the individual if they use (hire) them or not.Chap
 
I run a 180 deg. It should be noted that I live in SoCal where July/Aug temps are frequently triple digits.

I drove the car the other day and it was 110 outside and my water temp, when driving, was about 190 and crept up to about 200 when idling. With 50/50 antifreeze there was never a problem. I do have a good radiator

I use the vintage precision thermostat housing and really like it.

http://vintageprecision.com/products/thermostat_housing/index.html

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
 
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