Bob Drake Gas Tank

40fordpu

Well-known member
Bought a Bob Drake gas tank park number 81A-9002. Set up the bed sub rail and got a fit issue. Gas tank was purchased many years before this sub rail. Not saying one is right or wrong. Only concern is the pic showing the neck. See how the neck comes out at a slight angle with an indent on the left side???. Anyone with this issue or can comment on their setup greatly appreciated.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_7604.jpg
    IMG_7604.jpg
    47.1 KB · Views: 158
  • IMG_7605.jpg
    IMG_7605.jpg
    40.5 KB · Views: 120
  • IMG_7606.jpg
    IMG_7606.jpg
    50.7 KB · Views: 136
The 1940 pickup came with a different gas tank than the other 1940 passenger models. The sellers of the reproduction passenger car tank claim it will fit the pickup. The gas filler spout is located differently to line up with the cutout in the pickup bed side. I found all this out after I modified the mounting holes on mine to match up with the bed side cut out.........40larry
 
The 1940 pickup came with a different gas tank than the other 1940 passenger models. The sellers of the reproduction passenger car tank claim it will fit the pickup. The gas filler spout is located differently to line up with the cutout in the pickup bed side. I found all this out after I modified the mounting holes on mine to match up with the bed side cut out.........40larry


Interesting.


My reprint of the 1938-41 chassis book shows two relevant fuel tank part numbers...


81A-9002, "81A, C, 82A, C, 91A, 922A-91C, 99C, 922C, except 91C-80, 86, 01A, 022A except 01A & 022A-78, 11A" "38-9-40"


and


91C-9002 "91C-80, 86, 01C, 09C, 022C, 11C ex. 11C78".


The bed part numbers (body parts book) show the same 1938-41.


So the question... did the fuel tank location on the frame change in 1940 or was there interference in the 1938-39 years and Ford redesigned the fuel tank to correct that?
 
I have a NOS 40 passenger gas tank still wrapped in paper and the filler pipe comes straight out. I suspect that one has been bent at some time or was manufactured that way (blem).
 
I've restored (15) 1939 & 1940 Ford passenger cars to date as well as one '40 PU. As many of you know, I DO MY HOMEWORK and don't modify anything from the authentic. That being said, I've never noted any difference in the 1/2T. PU tank and the 39 / 40 passenger cars tanks. My observations don't necessarily eliminate the possibility that there was not a difference at some point. However, with what evidence can be found, there doesn't appear to have been.

I can send photos of numerous car tanks as well as an authentic PU tank to anyone that may desire such. Apparently they are too large to attach here...
 
Kube's photo's. The second photo is of a 1940 1/2T pickup and the third photo is of a 1940 Coupe.
 

Attachments

  • fuel tank top MK.jpg
    fuel tank top MK.jpg
    32.1 KB · Views: 121
  • 40 Pickup Tank.jpg
    40 Pickup Tank.jpg
    55.1 KB · Views: 135
  • 40 Coupe Tank.jpg
    40 Coupe Tank.jpg
    55.9 KB · Views: 131
After looking at the pics, I think the neck just needs pulling forward a bit. Just enough to make it work.

Mart.
 
I'm not sure if it had deformation or not. I can't tell from the photos. Too much stuff in the way. It should show if viewed & photographed from a different angle. From Kube's photos, it looks like it should come pretty much straight out to the side. If it got dropped on the bung, it could be buckled a bit on the wall of the tank.
 
Last edited:
I'm not sure if it had deformation or not. I can't tell from the photos. Too much stuff int the way. It should show if viewed & photographed from a different angle. From Kube's photos, it looks like it should come pretty much straight out to the side. If it got dropped on the bung, it could be buckled a bit on the wall of the tank.

The filler does and should come out quite perpendicular to the tank. If the Drake tank tube is bent to one side, only a few degrees, it will create a fitment issue.
 
Just to check I pulled the original tank for my 39 pickup down from the rafters in my garage to see if there is a difference between it and the the Drake tank I installed. Also had a little issue in regards to the filler location. Took a comparison photo at filler neck area and found at least a 1/4 inch difference in location of the caged nut after getting a tape measure out. I ended up pulling the filler neck forward on the Drake tank and was able to fix the issue. Also compare the first photos in the initial post to Kube's frame. There is a very large space between the tank and rear member in Kube's frame but basically none in the original posters photos, his is right against the wood support for the box frame right on top of the rear member. Close only counts in horseshoes and hand grenades as they say, so maybe that explains part of the problem. My original tank looks like the filler neck was pulled forward as well, maybe a common problem on the line?
 

Attachments

  • fullsizeoutput_4802.jpg
    fullsizeoutput_4802.jpg
    53 KB · Views: 56
  • fullsizeoutput_4803.jpg
    fullsizeoutput_4803.jpg
    46.6 KB · Views: 56
Thanks everyone for the replies and pictures. I used a large C clamp and very carefully bent the neck straight. Seemed like it might have been "damaged" at one point. Still hits my sub rail but much better than before. Sub rail is from NCT by way of Midwest Early ford during the transition. Contact Bob Drake company and here is the response.

From the edge of the gas tank rear flange to the center line of the neck opening is roughly 8 ½” from the back edge of the illustrated bed sub frame to the center line of the cut out is roughly 18 ½”

I have yet to do the measurements. Should check it out tomorrow.
 
Be sure you check the romoveability of your tank before installing the bed. The neck on my Drake tank was mislocated as mentioned here and was slightly miscontoured which
unfortunately will not allow it to be removed from the from the frame in the normal way.
I installed the tank prior to installing the bed.
Charlie ny
 
Be sure you check the romoveability of your tank before installing the bed. The neck on my Drake tank was mislocated as mentioned here and was slightly miscontoured which
unfortunately will not allow it to be removed from the from the frame in the normal way.
I installed the tank prior to installing the bed.
Charlie ny

What? No way! It states clearly in Drake's catalog that all tanks are exact copies of the original. Of course then it goes on to state they have a bit more capacity and don't accept authentic sending units.

That leaves me a tad confused. They are exactly the same only different? How can that be?


I doubt Drake has ever heard of this issue prior to you Charlie. :)
 
There was a problem about 10 15 years ago. In 2005 I had one of those tanks that you couldn't remove from bottom. I had just put the body back on my 39 ford, around 22 bolts. I wasn't going to take back off. I found out the bottom half was shifted about 1/2" the drivers side. I formed the tank to fit with my handy ball peen hammer.


The fix was to lift the body to replace tank. I,m sure there are some of those tanks still out there.
 
Yeah I get that things aren't perfect. So I began to assemble bed. original picture shows the neck touching the rear of the sub rail. Look at attached picture. Sub rail does not line up with bedside (still not fully assembled so there is time for adjustment). My point is that the bedside looks like a better position than the sub rail. Question - should these line up?? If so and my bedside is in "correct" location, should I "cut" tank opening on sub rail to match? Still think tank is better now that I bent it, not perfect but better. Thanks for the advice as always.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_7630.jpg
    IMG_7630.jpg
    53.3 KB · Views: 11
Back
Top