Afraid I opened a can of worms

M

Magoo2

Member
Just dropped the oil pan on my '31 truck. Found some chips of what I assume is babbitt material in the third sump of the baffle. This engine has not been rebuilt as far as I can tell. Looking for opinions as to my best options. I inherited the truck and just want to take it out occasionally. Not looking to have it rebuilt.
 
Usually, a good indication of rebuilt vs original is that Ford used steel connecting rod shims and after market are brass.
 
Did you run it before you opened it up? Any scary noises?
Back when we were teens, with all the answers we would have cleaned out the pan, bolted it back on and drove it without worrying.
Now being much more sophisticated we fix-em, listen for every little sound and worry if we hear one.
For an occasional driver:
Check for any play in the rods at the crank, If tight, it's your call. Also get a Triple A membership because as your age you will no longer hear some of the strange sounds.
Except the ones in your head.
 
chap52 said:
Did you run it before you opened it up? Any scary noises?
Back when we were teens, with all the answers we would have cleaned out the pan, bolted it back on and drove it without worrying.
Now being much more sophisticated we fix-em, listen for every little sound and worry if we hear one.
For an occasional driver:
Check for any play in the rods at the crank, If tight, it's your call. Also get a Triple A membership because as your age you will no longer hear some of the strange sounds.
Except the ones in your head.
Click to expand...
Train yourself a "HEARING-EAR" Dog.
Bill Justoutofbed
 
BILL WILLIAMSON said:
Train yourself a "HEARING-EAR" Dog.
Bill Justoutofbed
Click to expand...



OR, get some hearings 'aids', and figure out how not to lose them...as they are very expensive !!


As to OP query , if you've done the hard work of dropping the pan, etc....why not take the rod cap of off the suspect rod and look it over ? If it is real bad, maybe you can locate a substitute rod (?), if not so bad, meaning Babbitt mostly good integrity, well..your choice.


Just like a 'can o worms', if you leave ONE bad/dying/decaying worm in a can of lively worms...guess what will eventually occur ?
 
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Growley bear said:
Usually, a good indication of rebuilt vs original is that Ford used steel connecting rod shims and after market are brass.
Click to expand...


That is not true, Ford, like ALL the engine manufactures, used brass.


You NEVER put steel, against steel, especially like the cheap tempered steel shims that Ford used for replacement service, in the 40's.


Herm.
 
For piece of mind, it is not that hard to take off the caps one at a time and inspect them.

Ken
 
You'd be surprised how much metallic stuff can be in your sump, Inspect the rods if you must be but may be ...not as bad as you'd think.
 
Photos of metal pieces as they appear in dipper tray would help.

Sometimes these turn out to be chunks of rod bearing side thrust babbit and are not a serious problem unless rod is loose and banging around.
 
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How was it running before you took the pan off?

If you were happy with it. Clean the pan and put it back on.

Model A engines can take a lot of abuse or use. Maybe run a little heavier oil, 20w-50, with a bottle of STP. Mavel Mystery Oil in gas for valves.

200 to 300 miles per year? Even a really worn out engine could last ten to twenty years.

There great cars. Enjoy.
 
If the car was mine and the rods are tight on the crank, and the engine is quiet, I'd put the pan back up and drive it gently, certainly not over 40 miles an hour and listen to it now and again by putting your ear on the top of the shift lever in neutral, in the quiet of your garage and see if you hear any distressing sounds. There are times when it is best to close the can of worms rather and make things worse. Lube and change oil every 500 miles and enjoy until the sounds change. Ernie
 
Thanks again everyone. Car was running well when I started restoration 10 years ago. I am in the process of straining the sludge to get an idea of how much junk was in the pan. I tried to post a picture but having some problems resizing to fit parameters.
 
If it is a bad connecting rod babbbit, Bert's sells re-babitted rods singly. Measure the crank and order a new rod from Bert's I changed all 4 of mine. Takes some work but at least I am not worried about a god failing or seizing on my old engine. A lot cheaper than a rebuild.
 
When I set the rod and main clearances, cleaned the pan, replaced the timing gears, both cam and crank, etc etc, I pulled the engine.

It's so much easier to work on. More fun to stand there and work than lay under with oil dripping etc.

It's not that difficult. Get an engine stand and an adapter, and find a place that will rent an engine hoist.

You can check the clutch,throw-out bearing, pilot bearing and pressure plate, even bush the clutch shaft if needed.

I learned a lot and everything got a thorough going over.....
 

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you can also set bearings with aluminum foil...if you still have shims,remove the cap,fold and measure a piece to aluminum foil (I found heavy duty foil folds in half to .002),stick a 1" wide measured .002 piece in the cap,torque back on.gently try to turn the crank,not much,just a touch..if it turns,pull a shim from each side just till it doesn't turn..voila!!! .002 no go,so .00175 clearance...way easier than plastigage..just remember to turn the crank no more than a nudge when fitting..the idea is to just wedge the crank at .002...this method is faster and easier when working under the car...another tip is to let the car sit without starting for 2 days before pulling the pan,let the oil drip out for as long as you can.
 
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