Electrolysis solution?

Pete read the articles and did not know about the "flushing machine" as described, is this a machine that most radiator shops would have; if so on my way way over to nearest radiator shop.
I see no mention of "grounding" as a solution to my problem and will abandon that idea.
 
At any given time, greater San Antonio TX might have one radiator shop that can repair a copper/brass radiator or do a recore job. I've seen 5 go away in the last twenty years and even then there was no more than one operating at any given time. Now days, a radiator shop is a store that sells aftermarket plastic/aluminum radiators for modern makes & models.
 
Electrolysis, or stray voltage? Two different issues. Not trying to be pedantic but words mean things. Dissimilar metals in the presence of an electrolyte produce a weak current, this is to be avoided but bonding jumpers won't help here. Stray voltage is an interesting issue and can cause strange problems. Even static buildup can cause difficult problems to diagnose and result in expensive repairs.
 
Given the price of heads etc, I think anything we can do is cheap insurance...I personally run a 50% antifreeze mix, sacrificial anodes, numerous earth straps, even one of those rubber earth straps onto the ground to prevent static build up.
 
Easiest way is to fit zinc pencils into 3/8 NPT plugs, [they'll look like temp gauge sender units], and screw them in the heads opposite the temp senders
 
Google BoatZinks.com and they will have what you need. I have a zink in each head. They make a brass plug that will screw into your head and is threaded for thier zink. They come in several configurations.
Regards, Don
 
Your radiator is already grounded by being bolted to the frame. The electrolysis being discussed is an electro-chemical reaction and not related to the electrical circuitry of the car.
 
37don said:
Google BoatZinks.com and they will have what you need. I have a zink in each head. They make a brass plug that will screw into your head and is threaded for thier zink. They come in several configurations.
Regards, Don
Click to expand...
Went there and says "domain for sale?"
 
Try a radiator cap called a "Rad Cap". It comes with the sacrificial anode attached.
 
Previous to this thread Id seen a few talking about the galvanic corrosion but didn't realize it was this prevalent? Do most Flatty's experience this? Mine was built 5 yr's ago, I have a Brass-works radiator solid copper and brass. aluminum heads, never really thought much about it. From reading things suggested it sounds like the electrolytic corrosion hit's the least noble metal so the sacrificial anode's the weakest link? Thinking as the radiator is brass / copper it's pretty tough so the aluminum heads are the weak point needing protection. I'm deducing the anode which fit in the threaded hole for temp sensors would be the best bet?
 
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