Electrolysis solution?

The sacrificial metal, zinc, mag, needs to be connected to metal that's connected to what your trying to save. Before I got tired of putting $ into a hole in the water & had a boat I used sacrificial anodes on the out boards and instructions were to connect to metal on motors.
 
I don't think it's that big a problem if you change your anti-freeze annually. I always thought the rust inhibitors in the antifreeze became inert and stopped working so I change mine every year. In doing some reading since I've been keeping up with this thread I believe that keeps the galvanic corrosion under control too. I'm thinking this is what protects newer engines with multiple alloys from the eng. protected in contact with coolant protected if you change the coolant per the intervals in the manuals.
 
Here's an informative discussion on the effectiveness of radiator cap anodes. Seems like they might be a waste of money if your antifreeze is working properly.
http://www.viperclub.org/vca/threads/anode-radiator-cap-a-gimmick-or-really-needed.576892/

But, here's another "test situation" using a magnesium anode immersed in USED engine coolant showing that the magnesium anode does protect the internal aluminum engine parts.

Truth seems to be that, if your antifreeze is "fresh" and changed regularly the additives in the antifreeze will prevent the corrosion of aluminum engine parts. The more the additives become depleted, the more destructive corrosion of the aluminum parts increases as the liquid in the radiator becomes "weaker".
 
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Problem with all of this is how the cars/trucks are driven. There is a big difference between vehicles that are driven daily and over some distance vs one that spends most of it's time sitting and when it is driven it is for short distances.
 
If you don't live in a cold climate what's the advantage of anty freeze , .I ran a bunch of rental cars and after having a heater core corrode through (on the shop hack )I just used straight water ,When I restored my first FH car in the 80 s we welded up the alunmium heads after a few years we were on a run and engine started to run rough we found that the weld had corroded away this was due to the anty freeze most likely being past its use by date .after doing this twice I went to iron heads .Yes the antifreeze has additive's in it like for the ,pump lube ,water wetter ,anty rust but I don't think I would run it ,in a flathead .if you do at least change it every year its very corrosive , Its a big thing here to use soluble oil (lath cutting oil )in Model As ,as a lube and rust preventative ,a cup full of that will do the job .Ted
 
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Soluble oil retards heat transfer. I suspect that the oil film it will leave on the metal will hamper
heat transfer so if you have any tendency to overheat this may make it worse....
 
I agree with the previous posts it will affect heat transfer and hoses ,but could take a while , does it have any more negatives than anty freeze has .
 
Years ago in the 30s and 40s they used Alcohol and some were drinking it.
I think that is fake news, but if you are using a battery tender this could cause electrolysis
 
Received the screw in anodes, didn't like them as had to shorten them and didn't feel right when screwed into the bottom of radiator.
Am going with the PENTOFROST coolant and the LUCAS PURPLE ICE water wetter.
 
FlatheadTed said:
If you don't live in a cold climate what's the advantage of anty freeze , .I ran a bunch of rental cars and after having a heater core corrode through (on the shop hack )I just used straight water ,When I restored my first FH car in the 80 s we welded up the alunmium heads after a few years we were on a run and engine started to run rough we found that the weld had corroded away this was due to the anty freeze most likely being past its use by date .after doing this twice I went to iron heads .Yes the antifreeze has additive's in it like for the ,pump lube ,water wetter ,anty rust but I don't think I would run it ,in a flathead .if you do at least change it every year its very corrosive , Its a big thing here to use soluble oil (lath cutting oil )in Model As ,as a lube and rust preventative ,a cup full of that will do the job .Ted
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Ted Penrite market a radiator additive that is purely anticorrosive and not antifreeze - I tend to run that because you are right we don't need antifreeze in most of this country -Karl
 
Research on my 270 formula Cummins showed 2 solutions to prevent cylinder holes due to activity in the water jacket. The 855 c.i. motor would fail due to electrolysis eating holes in the liners about 3/8" thick.
There was a oil filter looking deal to be added in the heater line that dispensed a chemical, change a few times a year.
Since the truck was seasonal & it sat for months, I got a chemical additive direct treatment as well as distilled water for antifreeze mix. Did not help to have 4 massive 6v batteries that were connected to a maintainer all winter. Who woulda thought. I don't miss that thing
 
Right Karl ,thanks ,For what its worth I stored my 35 for about 8 years but with no water in it just started it dry every 3 months and ran it for about 7 Min ,did a Vinger flush on the Radiator on road time .Goes good no ill affects ,Ted


Karl said:
Ted Penrite market a radiator additive that is purely anticorrosive and not antifreeze - I tend to run that because you are right we don't need antifreeze in most of this country -Karl
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After removing stud that was holding header on am of the opinion that the stud did not hit the water jacket; the stud measures an 1 1/2" in length and was only screwed into the block about 3/4", shows no indication of rust to the stud or discoloration to the gasket.
Could there be a crack in the deck running to an exhaust valve that's causing the leak? Drove it infrequently for a couple of years with no problem with overheating or loosing a noticeable amount of coolant. However, had noticed that the exhaust tip on the affected side and water splatter on garage floor leaving a slight rust stain.
Would Barr's Stop Leak be appropriate in this instance.
 
Pete, not sure what you mean by "pressurize" the cooling system, you mean bring it up to operating temp.?
Hear about a product called IRON-TITE, wonder if that would help.
 
36tudordeluxe said:
Pete, not sure what you mean by "pressurize" the cooling system, you mean bring it up to operating temp.?
Hear about a product called IRON-TITE, wonder if that would help.
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Is your coolant under pressure? That is, are you using pressure type radiator cap? Originally, your cars cooling system was non-pressurized. If you have recently pressurized your system, I'm thinking your leakage problems have been exacerbated by doing so....
 
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