Timing Gear Cover

That's the oil slinger.

Well i fill like a OLD A$$......with my poor eye sight and light i could not see the mark until i took the picture zoomed in!!!!! in my defense the slinger (thanks Katy)hides it LOL....last questions here ....would it be worth it to change the cam gear ??????? to the aluminium one?????? since im this far, and does the key way key look right other pics that where posted on this thread show a lot taller key??????
 

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Yeah I dont know on that I dont know enough about the A's YET......but upon clean up and wipe down the chrome cover generator mounting hub has Not bean ground down........maybe this is a B cover made for a alternator????? do the alternators use a narrower mounting hub?
I have never heard of a Model A or Model B timing cover made for an alternator.

Charlie Stephens
 
It looks like you have a "B" head along with the B water pump.

If it were a "B" block the oil return pipe from the valve chamber to the block would be missing, and there would be a boss for the addition of a fuel pump in place of the bottom oil pipe attach point...

The distributor looks like an "A" type.....others will know more...
 
It looks like you have a "B" head along with the B water pump.

If it were a "B" block the oil return pipe from the valve chamber to the block would be missing, and there would be a boss for the addition of a fuel pump in place of the bottom oil pipe attach point...

The distributor looks like an "A" type.....others will know more...

Weeew guess thats good news,i knew i had a B head and pump, which i am going to change back to the A setup (4 bolt).
 
That timing mark on the cam gear looks to be drilled half a tooth off from the correct location. I just looked again, and I think it's ok, but the camera angle throws it off a bit.
 
would it be worth it to change the cam gear to the aluminum one? since im this far, and does the key way key look right other pics that where posted on this thread show a lot taller key?

The fiber camshaft gear has gotten a lot of bad press. If you don't replace it now while you have it stripped down it will surely fail. :)

Crank key does look a little unusual. Looking straight on at the crank snout, does the key fill the crank gear key way?
 
I'm going to change the "A" dizzy off my '31 "A" roadster with a "B" block
and "B" timing cover to a "B" dizzy. For now I time the "A" dizzy to the "B" timing cover by pulling the number 1 spark plug. And "manually" observing when the number 1 piston comes up to TDC. Not the most accurate way
of timing, but it puts me in the ballpark for now.;)

Bob-A:D
 
That timing mark on the cam gear looks to be drilled half a tooth off from the correct location. I just looked again, and I think it's ok, but the camera angle throws it off a bit.

I see what you mean Tom, I think i am going to get the aluminium gear and start fresh with the timing

The fiber camshaft gear has gotten a lot of bad press. If you don't replace it now while you have it stripped down it will surely fail. :)

Done :-)

Crank key does look a little unusual. Looking straight on at the crank snout, does the key fill the crank gear key way?

I had to work today.....tonight when i get home ill see if i can get another picture since my eyes are so bad, and my Radiator is still installed. I would change the gear and key on the crank but i don't want to drop the pan right now, all this has transpired out of doing a tuneup lol if i go any further i may just yank it and send it to Berts and have them go through it.
 
Well i fill like a OLD A$$......with my poor eye sight and light i could not see the mark until i took the picture zoomed in!!!!! in my defense the slinger (thanks Katy)hides it LOL....last questions here ....would it be worth it to change the cam gear ??????? to the aluminium one?????? since im this far, and does the key way key look right other pics that where posted on this thread show a lot taller key??????

If your crank pulley is still in place in the picture you posted (post #22) of the timing marks, then I think your keyway is OK.....I see the pulley is still on there in post #31.

Part of the pulley slips over the crank and butts against the oil slinger, and it also has a notch for the key..
 
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Not to be picky, but it’s a c head , which came on a b. block, and uses a 3 bolt water pump. The b head has a 4 bolt water pump and was factory aftermarket for the a engine.
Also there were several different 3 bolt water pumps with different length shafts for the different radiator positions of the 32,33,34 models.
 
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