Question for painting professionals.

Capt Kirk

Capt Kirk

Well-known member
A little background first. My wife got into an accident Saturday putting the Jeep Wrangler on it's top. She's OK. I got the car back home after dark that day. Following day, I accessed the damage...it's manageable. Hood, rt front fender and passenger door. I will buy hood and fender new which comes factory primed in black. The door I picked up from the salvage yard today and comes in OEM finish.
My background, I've painted 4 vehicles...63 Bug, 56 Chevy truck my 35 and the accident Jeep. Each (with the exception of the Jeep) was stripped down to bare metal, primed and painted...all with good results.
I will be using Nason base/clear which is what I used originally on the Jeep.
Now to the questions:

1) With the OEM finish on the door, do use a primer or will a properly prepared OEM finish be a good base for the color. New door is dark blue, the rest of the jeep started out as light grey and current color is Electric Lime Green.

2) For the new black primered parts, do I prime and paint? Strip the factory primer (in case it's a poor quality primer) prime and paint? Or just prepare the black primer and spray the color?

My Jeep isn't old (2000) and it's not a Ford but any answers to these questions may help others in here. Thanks!!
 
Your Jeep is 17 years old...not ancient, but old enough.

scuff the new panels with coarse scotchbrite pads.
same with the painted pieces.
use a sealer, then paint away.
 
Also, given that the door is used - you need to think about dirt/wax in the finish. I'd use a good 'pre cleaner' to first remove as much of any potential wax/film as possible. Also, I'd shoot the door jambs first - once good n' dry, mask the jambs off and paint the top surfaces.

Also, I'd probably color sand it with 400 first, then shoot it with a good quality sealer. Depending on how well the new paint matches the old and how good of a painter you were/are, you may need to color blend into the other panels - no way for me to know from here. That is always the harder part - "the blend".

Electric Lime Green sounds like an iridescent color - so trying to do the color match might be tricky (depends on how it was shot before, how well the new paint matches and amount of color fade or other changes). Good luck!
 
If you're unsure of the adhesion of the black primer, you could do a "Stick test". Lay down a strip if good duct tape,press it on good, then pull it off.If the primer comes off with the tape, sand off the primer.
 
Usually new replacement parts are coated with a coating called e coat. Not really a primer. It should be scuffed and sealed as mentioned. The door can be scuffed and painted but I would seal it just so you have a uniform color on all the panels you are going to paint.
 
i agree to seal it, i use ppg epoxy primer reduced as a sealer- sticks great as long as its scuffed and cleaned first
 
tomkowal said:
i agree to seal it, i use ppg epoxy primer reduced as a sealer- sticks great as long as its scuffed and cleaned first
Click to expand...

Tom, I used PPG on all my other painting projects except for the Jeep. I need to stick with what I used. I'll take everybody's advice...cleaner/dewaxer, scuff, sealer, color and clear. Parts have been ordered and should be here in a week. I'll have to rig up a paint booth...wish I was back in my shop in Fairbanks for this project! If there's interest here, I can post progress pics but worried that I'm walking a fine line with this not being about an antique Ford.
 
OK...well, if I'm going to turn this into a "paint clinic by an amateur", we need to have a starting point. Again, she's OK.
 

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Check the "coating" on the new parts by placing a paper towel soaked with lacquer thinner on it for a minute or two. If the paint lifts/melts it is a primer paint. If there is no damage it is the E coating mentioned before. That E coating is probably better than any primer we could install, so just scuff and seal it (hoping it is smooth with no dings).

But if it melts I'd be wary what the guy in China who made that fender painted it with. I'd probably sand it mostly off and start again.

That is, unless your wife plans on rolling the thing again soon....then I wouldn't spend too much time on it.
 
Make sure there isn't covered up bodywork on the junkyard door. I ALWAYS shoot a coat of sealer before color, especially on a patchwork substrate. I'm not a professional but I've painted many cars and trucks since the 70s. Have been using Transtar sealer for some time with good results, comes in 4 or 5 colors that you can choose one that will work with whatever you are shooting for final color. Sorry your car went "wheels up".
 
Capt Kirk said:
If there's interest here, I can post progress pics but worried that I'm walking a fine line with this not being about an antique Ford.
Click to expand...
Well, Jeep and Ford are sort of cousins! Ford had a hand in designing the first Jeeps in WWII and if I remember correctly, actually built more Jeeps than Willys did. Ford also held some patents on the Jeep. So I'd say your photos should not be a problem!
 
Ok, an update and question. I got a new hood and fender and a salvage yard door. Have them all scuff sanded but not final cleaned yet. I purchased a harbor freight 10x17 portable carport to serve as a paint booth and have that fully assembled and anchored on a concrete pad that was the lead-in apron to my small garage. Put a tarp on the concrete to protect it from paint and to contain whatever dust and dirt that was on it. Heat was tested today and it gets plenty warm with a torpedo heater. Three day weekend for me next week and forecast has temps at about 50 so next weekend is for painting. I have all of my paints and supplies and am ready to go for next weekend.
Now to the question. I'm using Nason B/C and for the clear is says a mix ratio of 2:1 +20%. The +20% is for the reducer and it says to mix thoroughly prior to activation. The "+" has me wondering. Does it mean 20% or more reducer or does it mean add (+) only 20% reducer?
I'll get some pics of the "paint booth" and next weekend when I get started.
 
CPt ,The hardener adds a reducing factor into it so up to 20% would be the maximum reducer ,more like 10% if you are working in warm conditions you need a slow reducer for flow out and shine ,if it only a couple of panels then a faster reducer will do as you get over the work quicker therefore keeping it wet .For the base coat after a hr or two lightly scuff with a fine scotch pad to knock any dirt of .Ted
 
Good one Alchemy, the word is out that some time ago one of the Click & Clack bro/duo has passed away!:D:D
 
IF you use a kerosene heater, make sure you let the air settle out before putting car in. I used one in my paint booth years ago. Had more fish eyes than a aquarium.
 
Thanks for the replies. I was wondering if my torpedo heater would cause problems. I've always painted with less than ideal conditions and this is going to be another one of those times. I'm just painting a hood, door and fender hanging in the "paint booth" at the moment. I'll need to pull the jeep in later to touch up some areas that aren't bolt-on. The heater I'm using is a torpedo burning diesel...it's supposed to be 50 on paint day so I won't be relying on it other than to take the edge off. We'll see how it works out.
 
Another thing that helps is to keep all the paint supplies inside in a warm area - don't let the materials get cold (this will help what you're doing). Everything will flow out a lot better if you can get the car area up to 65+ or so. If you have a heated garage, turn the heat up to 80 or so and leave the parts in there - until right before you have to shoot them - then move them to your 'port a booth'.
 
Capt K........I believe I'd go to Plan "B" before I used that diesel heater. Diesel, kerosene....all the same thing when it comes to fish eyes. DD
 
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