Question for painting professionals.

[Capt Kirk]

Uggg...I was afraid of that. Thanks for letting me know before I wasted material and a bunch of time. How about a propane tank mount infrared heater...will this cause problems with putting too much moisture in the air? Any other suggestions for a suitable temporary source of heat?

 

[V8COOPMAN]

Uggg...I was afraid of that. Thanks for letting me know before I wasted material and a bunch of time. How about a propane tank mount infrared heater...will this cause problems with putting too much moisture in the air? Any other suggestions for a suitable temporary source of heat?

Kirk.......That's probably a reasonable question, for which I have NO qualified answer. Why don't ya call those guys where you paid the big bucks for the paint and ask for their advice. My concern would be not only wasting expensive paint, but mostly having to get rid of (stripping) yuck paint with umpteen-hundred dozens of fish eyes. Please keep us advised. DD

 

[JSeery]

Electrical heaters?

 

[FlatheadTed]

Your only doing a couple of panels so a electric heater to take the chill of it should do it ,we work in pretty basic conditions to ,Ted

 

[Sid the Maineiac]

Isn't it a good idea to have the sheetmetal of the vehicle being painted close to 70 degrees? I was told once on a vehicle I painted that was what caused my "fish eyes".The temp of the sheetmetal was not high enough.

 

[Capt Kirk]

Promised some pics. Here's what I've got going on.

 

[Bored&Stroked]

I'd surely use as much electrical heat and maybe propane heat as possible. Also, if you have a heated garage and can then MOVE the items into the heated garage over night. when you start getting below 60, bad stuff can happen with hardeners and solvent - just sayin.

Or, why not shoot some good quality epoxy primer and wait until Spring? That is what I'd do.

 

[Capt Kirk]

Stroked, thanks for the post. I know that temp is important when painting and propane can dump a lot of moisture into the air which is also not good. In my attempt to avoid wasting hundreds of dollars worth of paint, I did a little "soul searching" last night and figured out what it was that I really needed/wanted to do. I'd like to at least get the under side of the hood, under side of the fender and inner fender painted so I can get the car put back together. I can paint the outer surfaces later when it warms up. I have some body work and painting to do on the jeep itself so I could do those outer surfaces all at once. If I could get the jeep back together, I could pull it into the "porta-booth" and keep busy doing the other body work. It's supposed to get up to 56 this Sat so that's going in the right direction. My shop/booth is leaky enough that a propane heater may not cause problems with moisture...I don't know. Home Depot rents those for $17 a day. I have a few days to keep mulling it over.

 

[Bored&Stroked]

I hear yah - had to do a bunch of paintwork early last spring to get my car ready to take up to a Cleveland event for early HotRods. Flop had finished some metal work for me, I'd done the finish body work and had 3 days to patch in the paint, cut/buff it and get it to an event. I only had a 3 hour window on Tuesday afternoon to paint - when the sun was out to warm the metal (fenders, decklid and grill - outside). I moved the car itself into my nice home garage on Monday - masked the place off, turned the electric heaters on and get it to about 60 or so . . . and shot it inside. Was in the 40's at night outside.

Luckily I had the car inside for 2 days (warming up), before I shot it . . . came out really nice. A bit more orange peel than I'd have liked, but nothing that 600, 800 and 1000 wet-or-dry didn't fix. Polished it ALL the next day, put it together Thursday morning and had it to Cleveland Thursday night -- one Hell of a thrash in three days.

 

[Capt Kirk]

I've got all my parts scuff sanded the best I can. Areas of the underside of the hood and fender are problematic with getting scuffed due to stiffeners, contours and lips. These are new parts with that factory black primer (e-coat?). I recently heard of "deglosser". Is this something I should look into for use on these areas that are tough to scuff?