Pulled my spare engine apart for inspection

[Art Newland]

This is really a continuation of this thread;
http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=195689

 

[Art Newland]

All the pistons have slight scuff marks but rings look hardly used, all cylinders still show slight honing marks.

 

[Art Newland]

The wrist-pins look/feel great and the rod bearing look fantastic. All have a single thick .035 and one very thin (didn't measure) shim on each side.

 

[Art Newland]

The valves all look to be freshly lapped. Clearences are a loose .017 (.018 won't slide in) on the exhaust and loose .015 on 2 intakes .016 on the other 2. Close enough I think.

 

[Art Newland]

The crank looks very good, the rods look .020 under and the mains look .025 under. I have no way to measure how straight it is, but all the journals are round within a couple thou and my ability to measure accurately. The timing gear has nice squared off teeth. The slinger is a little bent, I should be able to straighten it out pretty good.

 

[Art Newland]

The front two main bearings look very nice but but the rear looks a little less professionally done. In the block, it looks like maybe some "bubbles in the babbitt? The thrust surfaces look very nice, .003 clearance. I hope to plastigauge it all today. The mains have a total of .0075 shims on either side of the caps.

 

[Art Newland]

The cam gear looks new, is it a good one or not?

 

[tbirdtbird]

the machinist must have decided the rear main bearing did not need much oil by creating that drain groove in the cap. Did the cap have the drain tube?

 

[Tom Wesenberg]

I'd fill in the misguided "machinist" extra oil drain trough. Fill it with good babbit material and scrap it to fit.

I can't tell if you have the macerated cam gear, or the laminated cam gear. You should be OK with the stronger laminated gear, but if it's macerated, now would be a good time to install an aluminum gear.

 

[VFRhugh]

My latest engine had the same groove cut in the rear main cap. I had all three repoured and finished to stock specs by Bill Barlow.
Hugh

 

[Art Newland]

I'd fill in the misguided "machinist" extra oil drain trough. Fill it with good babbit material and scrap it to fit.

I can't tell if you have the macerated cam gear, or the laminated cam gear. You should be OK with the stronger laminated gear, but if it's macerated, now would be a good time to install an aluminum gear.

I don't see any layers...

 

[Art Newland]

the machinist must have decided the rear main bearing did not need much oil by creating that drain groove in the cap. Did the cap have the drain tube?

Yes, the drain tube is there. Found info in the "trench" here;
http://fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=25530

 

[Art Newland]

BTW, I hope Les forgives me for using him for a shelf... 8^)

 

[Tom Wesenberg]

That looks like the stronger gear, not the macerated one, so it should be OK.

If the crank gear has any nicks or light rust from setting, then polish it up before running the engine.

 

[Art Newland]

That looks like the stronger gear, not the macerated one, so it should be OK.

If the crank gear has any nicks or light rust from setting, then polish it up before running the engine.

OK, the crank gear looks very good but I'll take a better look.

Any thoughts about assembly lube?

 

[goodoldvic]

Redline assembly lube is good, Lucas oil stabilizer is good , Cam lube is also good as is STP. I would use motor oil when slipping the pistons and rings into the bore. Good luck

 

[Art Newland]

Did clean up the crank gear, some surface rust.
All mains checked .0015 shimmed as is. Not going to mess with the babbitt at this time. Hopefully this will hold up while I have my original engine rebuilt.

 

[Tom Wesenberg]

Smear some grease on the cam lobes to be sure they have lube at start up time. I also grease the cam gear.

 

[Art Newland]

Will do. I did hone the cylinders as well, the rings don't look to have any time on them. Busy tomorrow, I hope to get the pistons back in and rod clearances tested Friday.

 

[Tom Wesenberg]

After honing how did you clean the cylinders?
I like to spray them with gas from my syphon sprayer, then oil them and wipe them with a clean white paper towel, then repeat until the paper towels come out clean.