Can't remove head

[jeffrupp]

I'm trying to remove the head on my 30. The firewall heat valve is in the way. All of the books I have and from what I've seen online show a different valve. Does anyone know how to remove this kind of heat valve to get it out of the way? I'm wondering if the inside part of valve unscrews from the engine side but I don't want to try to force it if that is not how it works.

 

[1930artdeco]

If you have the studs out, then the head should slide forward and clear, unless there is something holding it up. Or maybe slide it towards the manifold?

Mike

 

[brum1]

I have never seen a valve like that on the Model A, however I would definitely remove the valve to get the head off. Typically those head can be quite difficult to remove and you need every angle possible, Good Luck

 

[d.]

this does not appear to be a USA factory made part.
is it possible to be a South American produced addition?
what is the engine # and please poet other views of the engine compartment.

 

[Brian T]

I would imagine that part will just come unsnapped from the valve, I cant believe it was on there when the head was last installed, amazing you managed to remove the studs in the first place.

 

[Brentwood Bob]

open up the valve from in the cab and see what holds it in place.
That looks like a heavy duty casting. maybe from a residential application. Way before my time.
Bob

 

[Utopia Texas]

If the head is not somewhat loose already hand thread the spark plugs back in and turn the engine over a few times with the starter. Don't worry, it won't blow the head out the roof!

 

[jeffrupp]

Interesting comments. I tried to remove the studs but could only get one loose. After a week of working on it about an hour each day and a whole can of penetrating fluid I finally got the head loose today. Then this problem. After reading the comments about the studs being out I have the thought of tapping the head back down and trying to get the studs out now that they're not froze to the head anymore. I'll try that tomorrow.

As for the heat valve not being an original part, that has me perplexed. I inherited this car from my grandfather in 1984 when he passed away. I know that he had owned it since the mid 50's and he always told me that he had bought it from his neighbor who was the original owner. I was also told that the car was all original. In fact, the interior is; I'll post some pics of it. I will also post the engine serial #. If this part is not original then the firewall isn't either as there are no other holes, modifications, etc. on it.

Thanks for all the help.

 

[Mitch//pa]

You really should get that valve out of the way... Your going to start snapping studs cause your grabbing them at the top... Going back together Will also be an issue

 

[CT Jack]

Take a sawsall and cut the valve off. It's not an original Ford part. Model A's didn't have such nonsense. You have been killing yourself for no good reason.

 

[Bob C]

I'd do like Bob suggested and open the valve and see what's inside, somebody
had to put it on so you should be able to take it off.

Bob

 

[CWPASADENA]

Take a sawsall and cut the valve off. It's not an original Ford part. Model A's didn't have such nonsense. You have been killing yourself for no good reason.

I agree.

Henry never put this sort of thing on his cars at the factory.

Chris W.

 

[Tom Wesenberg]

If you open the heater valve and don't see any screws, then I'd guess it's just a press fit of the inside and outside pieces. If you can't unscrew or pry the parts apart, then cut it off or grind it off. It looks like it's just going to be in the way all the time anyway. If you want heat, then you can make another fitting for the same hole that is easy to remove.

 

[zzlegend]

Have to ask yourself, "which is easier to remove". That fitting or all those studs which you will probably never get out. I would never try to remove studs unless the block is getting surfaced. Plus you have to reinstall the head. Just my 2 1/2 cents.

 

[midgetracer]

I agree, you should be able to remove the vent. Start from the inside and you will see how it is attached. No need to cut it off. Removeng the studs with the head in place is a near impossibility. The vent will come out.

 

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

On the first pic, looks like if you drill out the rivet in the round plate, it'll jist FALL OFF! It's JUST an air duct.
Bill W.

 

[700rpm]

Take a sawsall and cut the valve off. It's not an original Ford part. Model A's didn't have such nonsense. You have been killing yourself for no good reason.

I don't agree. There were many unauthorized accessories in the Model A era, and this may be one very rare item. It is never a good idea to destroy something just bcause you can't at first figure out how it works, or have never seen anything like it, especially when it is likely irreplaceable. Bob C. has the right idea, what I would call a true restorer's attitude.

I also would not attempt to remove the studs with the head on. You're just asking for trouble that way.

 

[MikeK]

I do like that location for a heater outlet. Much better than just blasting the passengers leg. If it went on it will come off. It appears to be a 2" low pressure steam radiator fitting. Is it brass or iron? Can you get a finger, mirror, or probe inside of it to see if it is threaded, pinned, riveted? Don't be in a hurry to hack at it and ruin it.

 

[H. L. Chauvin]

If you would like to do what seems appropriate, according to Model A restoration guidelines, I would try to find the Clown Brain Guy who installed this Model A set up and mail him a "First Place" plaque for a "Darwin Award" !!!!!!!!!!

 

[jeffrupp]

I finally got it off. The vent was screwed on. The hole that it was in is not perfectly round so it obviously was added aftermarket. The heat valve is iron. Now to work on the studs!