engine stand

[OLD AS I]

Anyone know of a supplier for a flat head engine stand, one to use to rebuild an engine then use it as a test stand, I've built my own however a friend wants to buy one, I've got to many things on the go to build another and he's not so inclined. We've found cradles and systems to hold the block via exhaust ports however nothing to hold the engine for rotation (turn up side down) and to test run it. Seen a few video's but appear to be all home made stands

 

[Russ/40]

I don't think it is sensible to expect an engine rebuild stand to serve as a run in stand. Two totally different requirements for optimal usability.

 

[Capn John]

try this site!

http://www.stumpysfabworks.com/store/c1/Featured_Products.html

 

[34PKUP]

try this site!

http://www.stumpysfabworks.com/store/c1/Featured_Products.html

Not even close

 

[51 MERC-CT]

Anyone know of a supplier for a flat head engine stand, one to use to rebuild an engine then use it as a test stand, I've built my own however a friend wants to buy one, I've got to many things on the go to build another and he's not so inclined. We've found cradles and systems to hold the block via exhaust ports however nothing to hold the engine for rotation (turn up side down) and to test run it. Seen a few video's but appear to be all home made stands

Seriously doubt that you will find one made specifically for a flathead.
There are plans available from various sources ( Ebay, etc. )to convert existing engine stands to run stands. You will have to fabricate a conversion for the flathead.
Example---

 

[Mike in AZ]

if you could post a pic or two of what you made, perhaps we can understand what you are thinking....i've seen test stands, but nothing quite like what you are describing...Mike

 

[tubman]

If you are going to make your own, I have a couple of tips I've learned from bitter experience. First, get good (large) casters, the cheap little ones don't like to roll around too easily. Second, make sure the frame of the stand is high enough for the legs of your "Cherry-Picker" to roll under them.

 

[51504bat]

How about this from a guy over on the HAMB?

 

[TomT/Williamsburg]

There are roll around engine stands for flatheads like you see sbc's stored on. You can use this as your platform, remove the caster's and build a roll around dolly with gauges and radiator that it can sit on. Then your run/test stand can work for anything, not just a flathead .....

 

[Tinker]

Have a welder? Get some metal.

 

[51 MERC-CT]

if you could post a pic or two of what you made, perhaps we can understand what you are thinking....i've seen test stands, but nothing quite like what you are describing...Mike

If you are going to make your own, I have a couple of tips I've learned from bitter experience. First, get good (large) casters, the cheap little ones don't like to roll around too easily. Second, make sure the frame of the stand is high enough for the legs of your "Cherry-Picker" to roll under them.

Have a welder? Get some metal.

This conversion of an existing engine stand uses the original steel wheels and requires no welding. It's just cut, drill and bolt together.

 

[JSeery]

This dual use approach does not seem like a very convenient way to go to me. When you are assembling or disassembling an engine the "run" components of the stand are going to be in the way. The engine stand needs to allow the engine to rotate to different positions and provide good access. A run stand needs to provide gauges, electrical connections and cooling. If it were me I would want these functions to be totally separate, I see no advantage to attempting to combine them.

 

[51 MERC-CT]

This dual use approach does not seem like a very convenient way to go to me. When you are assembling or disassembling an engine the "run" components of the stand are going to be in the way. The engine stand needs to allow the engine to rotate to different positions and provide good access. A run stand needs to provide gauges, electrical connections and cooling. If it were me I would want these functions to be totally separate, I see no advantage to attempting to combine them.

The components that make the engine stand a run stand are all removed when being used as an engine stand. Therefore there isn't anything in the way.

 

[34PKUP]

I see no advantage to attempting to combine them.

Maybe if one is doing a number of engines over time and they have the floor space two fixtures might make sense but for most who are doing this minimally there are 4 less casters on the floor taking up space.

 

[barnfind]

The pic 51-Merc-CTposted is a quick economical approach.
That stand can be purchased from HF for about $50 or so on sale.
I have converted several and they work great.

 

[51504bat]

How about this from a guy over on the HAMB?

Sorry, forgot the link:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/flathead-engine-cradle.958790/

 

[JSeery]

Guess I just don't see it. But if you like the idea go for it. I'm sure it will work, it is just the inconvenience factor for me. Not one of those things that is right or wrong, just personal preferences.

 

[tubman]

I think 51-Merc's idea is a good one. One modification I would consider would be to attach the diagonal pieces with the front mount in a "hinged" manner, so the whole front part could be folded up and hung on a wall when not in use. (I know I have a lot more wall space than floor space these days.) Between my "Cherry-Picker", test stand, and several regular and storage stands, it's getting kinda crowded in my shop.

 

[OLD AS I]

This started as an engine stand, fixed position, no rotating. then I looked at it and said, "lets have it rotate", then I said why not make it to act as a test stand also, so this is the finished project.
Friends tell me "I have too much time on my hands", well now I'm really semi-retired, did retire 15 yrs ago with the idea of being semi-retired in a private business promoting a water valve repair system that I developed and went full time for its patent life (patents, what a joke that is, nothing more than a lawyer feeding frenzy).
Anyway 95% of the aluminum material was salvaged from material I recycled from tools I redesigned for the valve repair, think my finished stand has $75. for extra material (from off-cut metal shop) plus $150. for aluminum welding. Its adjustable length, width and height wise, has heavy duty casters and mounts are adjustable/removable for other engines. Has mount for rad with electric fan on it to avoid having belt driven fan. Stand will accept engine block with or without a transmission or transmission by it's self. Rad and dash panel are easily/quickly removed for assembly or dismantle of engine. Battery box holds 6 volt Optima battery in the Porsche battery box shell, looks like a standard battery. Complete unit can be broken down to 4 corners, 2 mounting points, 2 side tubes and 2 end tubes for storage when not in use.
Engine block is out for machining right now otherwise would be in stand, hope to have a video of running engine in a short time and post here.

 

[tubman]

OK, you win! I have only 6 gauges on mine and am getting by with two measly fused circuits. Seriously, that's a good lookin' stand; kind of like a WWII airplane cockpit.

It looks like you had the foresight to have clearance for a "Cherry-Picker". Oh, and tip number three. While it may be tempting to weld the casters to the frame, it's better in many ways to bolt them on, like yours.