Toly VS Zenith

Since you painted the engine and it turned black after that, it had to run too hot while you were driving it.
Could you tell if the pistons got too hot and started to bind in the cylinders?
Do you know if the rear of the cooling chamber had a bunch of rust and junk buildup?
Where do you run the spark lever, and was the timing set correctly?

I like to pull the engine by itself. In fact I'll be doing the same thing this week I hope.
A new set of pistons and rings wouldn't cost too much, and then you'll know what you have.
I'd go through this engine, rather than start over with an unknown.
 
jhowes said:
Carl G , I would like to know how you turn off the electric shut-off with the ignition switch. It only shuts off the line from the coil to the points which does nothing for the rest of the electrical system. Jack
Click to expand...
"Maybe" Carl G. has his switch wired as a "HOT" switch, that supplies current TO THE COIL? It's a common change over, & is easy to do, if you're NOT using a pop-out switch.
Bill Alter
 
Oh yea, can I change the piston out by just pulling the pan, or is there something Im not seeing?
Got the head off and starting to clean things up.
Im thinking of changing out #3 and #4 #4 has a hole in it but #3 looks like it might have some damage also????

Thanks for all the help

Stan
 
Tom Timing is dead on. I worked most of the day getting it right. At around 40 mph I set the advance around three clicks advance as I started up a small grade I retarded it 2 clicks, ran great after leveling out is when I noticed a little smoke. Pulled it over and call my son to come get me.

Cylinder walls look good, no scaring still turns over real easy. I have the head off and cleaning every thing up.

Thanks

Stan
 
Now I think I have another situation. After cleaning top of pistons I find they are marked .120 oversize. All I can find is .100----.125 over.
Who is the best to by from with great quality parts. Dont want CHINESE.

All info would be great

Thanks

Stan
 
3 clicks for 40 MPH, then go back to 1 click for an incline is very late timing. Late timing will overheat the engine and may be the reason for the paint to have burned.

I'd go with a full set of 4 pistons and rings.
 
Question please . . . I am to understand that a Model A Ford sitting at idle should have the spark lever all the way to the TOP at the fully retard position? Then all these years I have been laboring under the incorrect notion? Was told long ago that to idle with the spark at full retard was bad for the engine causing fast carbon build up and possibly damaged valves.

Please advise . . .
 
Capt Quahog said:
Question please . . . I am to understand that a Model A Ford sitting at idle should have the spark lever all the way to the TOP at the fully retard position? Then all these years I have been laboring under the incorrect notion? Was told long ago that to idle with the spark at full retard was bad for the engine causing fast carbon build up and possibly damaged valves.

Please advise . . .
Click to expand...

Once started you should not idle with the spark lever all the way up.. I am usually a little less than half which is dependent on your timing and advance contol Rod throw / adjustment
 
Totally agree with Marshall. You're faced with an opportunity to totally evaluate what you want to do with your A.
If you plan long distance touring, you'll be money ahead to exchange your engine for a quality rebuild you can specify components.
Otherwise, taking your time and rebuilding yourself or club project can be very rewarding.
I like to pull the engine by itself, splitting at the bell housing. It balances better on the hoist.
The electronic fuel valve is great for the indented f'wall. You just need a separate hot switch to it, like through a master cutoff.
Good luck!
 
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