Chatter Rod Removal

[Tinker]

I'll confess I didn't read everyone response to this...

Yea, you might bend them if you don't remove the front sheet-metal.. etc, well most likely. To me it was at least 2"+ to clear.

If they bend... bend them back. Its a tension rod, there is no lateral tension imposed in it's function. Getting it all back together might be fun too.

You might be lucky and remove them, that short plug has a square lug. I actually used a map torch and a 1920's square window crank to get them out. Go figure something for the 20s fit.

 

[Tinker]

And it was an ordeal I never want to do again! And Fords engine stay rods can be shoved up Henry's ***!

You obviously don't understand the importance of "chatter" rods.

 

[skidmarks]

You obviously don't understand the importance of "chatter" rods.

He will if he gets it back together and drives it without them. Sounds more like all the problems he has encountered were due to the floor board installation. Stock side shift or a earlier floor shift box makes no difference on removing or installing the chatter rods. The biggest challenge on removing them if they have been in place since new is getting the flathead bolt out.

 

[19Fordy]

I remember many years (1970) ago when I removed the original 40 engine I did not have to remove the engine steady rods as there was sufficient clearance with the radiator removed. Yes, I bent them a little, but it was easy to straighten them out. You could use increasingly largest dia. drill bits and just drill out the bolt tap drill size, pins or whatever you have. Make sure you reinstall them. I even used them when I installed the current 8BA. Just made them longer and welded ears onto the Merc. stamped steel bellhousing. Plus, you could also replace them with this aftermarket piece. The rear hook fits around the "X" member.

 

[dixiedelux]

Join Date: May 2010
Location: MN/FL
Posts: 2,302

Re: Chatter Rod Removal
I'll confess I didn't read everyone response to this...


Above is the introductory of your post, Tinker. I suggest you go back and read the entire post in chronological order if you want to make a productive contribution to my thread. It would probably take you as long as it took for you to compose your rambling, incoherent reply!

 

[Tinker]

Join Date: May 2010
Location: MN/FL
Posts: 2,302

Re: Chatter Rod Removal
I'll confess I didn't read everyone response to this...


Above is the introductory of your post, Tinker. I suggest you go back and read the entire post in chronological order if you want to make a productive contribution to my thread. It would probably take you as long as it took for you to compose your rambling, incoherent reply!

Ya I sense you have been on facebook alot. what i said has merit if you read it.

Take it how you will.... but you asked!

I apologize for my rambling....................

How much tolerance do you think Hank allowed for the rod to slide through the attachment on the block. From my estimation it is minuscule. From today's experience, I imagine I would have to drive the rods back through the attachment. What is your experience during re installation? My 40 is dry and now rust free. The PO changed out the front floor and trunk floors. It is obvious he half-assed the tool kit area. The front floor looks OK to me, but I fear not correct. He put it in to accommodate the transmission inspection plate he used, or visa versa. Do some of the earlier years use a front floor/inspection panel that would forbid access of 40 frame to rod attachment? I will try to get some pics soon, of the illustrative quality that Tony provided for me earlier. I am relieved to know that on my 46, Henry alleviated his previous piss poor engineering, and I won't have to repeat today's experience.

 

[JM 35 Sedan]

I've had good success removing the special bolts that hold these rods to the frame by modifying the end of short ratchet extension so it fits properly into the square tapered hole in the bolt head and then using a hand held impact driver to get that bolt to start backing out. Prior to doing the above, apply a good penitrating oil several times and let that work into those threads for 2-3 days. If it won't start backing out doing the above, I start using heat and repeat impacting with the hand held impact driver. I don't recommend using an air/electric impact wrench because it will #*$× up the square drive in the head of the bolt. Do whatever is necessary to gain proper access to the top of that bolt.

 

[TonyM]

My 40 has a top loader ****** out of an earlier ford, 39 I hope.!

There should be a number on the transmission that will tell you what year your trans is (39 tower is double detent). The number is located just above the inspection plate on the top of the trans where the trans attaches to the bell housing. Record that number and look it up in the ref books or on Mac Van Pelt's page and you will discover the approximate date (month) that the trans case was cast and assembled.