cut off switch

This may not be the "best" place but it's an idea.

I used a switch from one of the vendors along with the switch mount that bolts to the bottom starter mount bolt.

The cable in the foreground routes from the switch to the upper starter mount bolt.

I bought a long positive cable from a local parts store and it routes from the positive battery post to the switch.

The switch breaks the circuit between the positive battery post and the frame.

Sometimes I forget to turn it on so I have to climb out again..but I like it....
 

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Try using the search function as this has been discussed in detail "many" times.
On my tudor it is mounted under the front seat, out of sight but readily accessable.
Paul in CT
 
Under the driver's seat on the riser has worked great for me and I always turn it on or off as I get into or out of the car. Very handy and I don't have to open the hood. It's on my '30 coupe. The 3rd photo shows the weather strip loose at the bottom of the door opening. That is not a wire.
 

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bobpo1 said:
Under the driver's seat on the riser has worked great for me and I always turn it on or off as I get into or out of the car. Very handy and I don't have to open the hood. It's on my '30 coupe. The 3rd photo shows the weather strip loose at the bottom of the door opening. That is not a wire.
Click to expand...

got mine there also!
 
I have one under the driver's seat (mounted thru the seat riser) of my '31 Dlx Coupe, AND another one on the switch mount that bolts to the bottom starter mount bolt (as described on post #2) on my '28 Phaeton.

The Phaeton's 'Starter Mount' was a quick and easy breeze to install. The Coupe's under seat (drilling through the riser) was a real '*****' and time consuming task. So another aspect to consider is how much fun you have 'fooling around' with your car, and what kind of tools you have available.
 
I have one with a removable key on the seat riser of my RPU as well as on my Chevy. I find it works well and you do not have to lift the seat or open the engine bay if you forget.
 
1955cj5 said:
This may not be the "best" place but it's an idea.

I used a switch from one of the vendors along with the switch mount that bolts to the bottom starter mount bolt.

The cable in the foreground routes from the switch to the upper starter mount bolt.

I bought a long positive cable from a local parts store and it routes from the positive battery post to the switch.

The switch breaks the circuit between the positive battery post and the frame.

Sometimes I forget to turn it on so I have to climb out again..but I like it....
Click to expand...

Mounted it in the same place. Advantage is that you can check the oil, fan belt, etc. before you take off!
 
mine is on the floor just in front of the seat . if its outside anyone can trip it .
 
If you have fuel valve under the hood like my late 31; in the engine bay is likely the simplest since you've got to get in there anyway...
 
They corrode under the knob then you have a run away generator that blows your bulbs out. They're ok if you clean the contact surfaces frequently, I go for the heavy duty wing type shut off.
 
captndan said:
Where is the best place?
Click to expand...

Best place depends on the reason you want the switch.

If you want it as a cut off in case of emergency; in the cab where you can readily get to it in a hurry. This will mean additional cables and longer runs.

Just to turn off power when done driving for a while; under the hood as the picture shows using a kit such as one sold by Mikes is the easiest.
 
This is where mine is mounted on my 1931 Pickup. Not in the way and very easy to reach.
It is mounted in the cross member ahead of the seat riser.
 

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old31 said:
I just installed a "green knob" battery cut off directly on the battery. A tight fit but it worked. It was installed on the positive side and had to drill the bolt hole larger to accommodate the larger terminal.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CHEVROLET-C...m53e0d3fa84:m:mFJBZLryQ8anfFLxdweJmiQ&vxp=mtr
Click to expand...

PLEASE LOSE THE GREEN KNOB SWITCH. They are generally made of cast aluminum painted to look like brass, and they often crack, leaving you with no battery power. The "Good Switches" that you will find in the vendor catalogs are $25 or so and do not fail. That is probably why the green knob switches are $3 at the swap meets.
I put them up there with those tubular jack stands that collapse on guys.
 
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