32 ford rearend change?

C

choptop30

Junior Member
Building a 32,
In the middle of cutting down a 40 rear-end to put under the stock 32 frame.

I was wondering if the stock late 32 rear-end (scalloped tube) with spring and other misc. related parts that I have would be a better choice if I just swap out the mechanical brakes for later hyd. brakes and use it instead.

Will be running a warmed over flathead and stock three speed.

Any guidance would be greatly appreciated.

Don
 
Late 32 is a better choice.
I have a 34 rear with 3-54 gears and lincoln brakes in my32 3 window and it works fine.
Also,The 40 rearend is wider as well
 
With a flathead you'll be fine running a 32 rearend early or late. The only difference is between the 32 and 40 rearend is in the banjo area and mainly the pinion area. The weak link on most banjo rearends is the axle shaft keyway and improper torque settings. A hole shot or dumping the clutch is hard on the axle shafts. Most failures are shafts not ring and pinion or carrier . As far as width the 40 rearend is a inch wider on each size and will fit nicely in a 32 with or without fenders.
 
Using the late 32 rear IS a bolt in. It should handle a warmed flathead as long as you don't have too much "fun" with it. Juice brakes are a bolt in too. I have a late 32 rear behind a warmed up 265 SBC and a 39 trans 2000+ miles with no problems.
 
If you run the original axles, just do one really smart thing - buy a set of 'hub safety brackets' - they usually bolt into the same bolts as the wheel cylinders (hydraulic brakes).
That way, if you get a little too frisky one day and do happen to break an axle, the wheel doesn't fall off . . . as lots of bad things can happen at that point . . . the least of which is totaling the car.
 
Broken axles happen, they are not uncommon. And, it not always because of driving aggressively.
 
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Gabalus said:
Does anyone break an axle ?
Used ? Rusty ? Too much torque ?
Click to expand...
I broke an axle on my '31 RDPU. Stock Model B engine, about 5000 miles of normal driving after rebuild. The same axle that is used in an early '32 rear end. The axle was used but passed a magna flux inspection. Definitely not rusty. Maybe too little torque if anything (probably the most common cause of failure). My guess is that there was a small crack that magna flux missed and it gradually worked its way through causing the failure. If I had hydraulic brakes I would have had safety hubs of clips. I just got lucky. There is another recent thread on this same topic: http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=188603&highlight=stephens

Charlie Stephens
 
Charlie Stephens said:
I broke an axle on my '31 RDPU. Stock Model B engine, about 5000 miles of normal driving after rebuild. The same axle that is used in an early '32 rear end. The axle was used but passed a magna flux inspection. Definitely not rusty. Maybe too little torque if anything (probably the most common cause of failure). My guess is that there was a small crack that magna flux missed and it gradually worked its way through causing the failure. If I had hydraulic brakes I would have had safety hubs of clips. I just got lucky. There is another recent thread on this same topic: http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=188603&highlight=stephens

Charlie Stephens
Click to expand...

Thank you Charlie Stephens. But now, I'm scared.
 
Stock early Ford drive line components absolutely will fail eventually with even a mildly modified (125 hp) flathead engine.
If you plan on retaining the cross spring through it all, consider
changing the center section of the cross member to a later one that will take a straight spring. This will allow you a wide choice of springs like an A or T if you go to a quick change or a later rear end.
For now and the cheapest way for you is use the 32 rear end, BUT, be thinking ahead because the 32 is going to be a whole bunch of headaches. They do not have a straddle mounted pinion for one big thing.
You will want to have either the full welded ring type saftey hubs or at least the clips.
Consider an 8 inch Ford rear out of a Maverick. They are the right width to fit the car and with the availabe weld on kits, you can use any cross spring. They will handle any flathead engine you will put in the car and almost any gear ratio is available. A 9 inch is overkill for a light car with any engine under 400 hp. They are also 90 lb heavier.
With any "fun type" flathead engine you will also have transmission problems eventually. This consists of broken parts in the case and sometmes on the street.
Consider one of many late model options for a transmission as your funds allow. Adapters are availabe for just about any combination you can dream up.
 
"For now and the cheapest way for you is use the 32 rear end, BUT, be thinking ahead because the 32 is going to be a whole bunch of headaches. They do not have a straddle mounted pinion."

the late `32 rear axle does indeed have a straddle mounted pinion.

if you`re building a period car, i think the late `32 rear axle would be a good choice [it`s what i`m using]. but you have to remember that rear axle is not going to stand up to a lot of abuse. if you want to spin the tires, use a Maverick axle.
tom
 
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The late 32 axle is easily identified in that it has the 'scalloped' torque tube flange - in addition to a pinion support in the center section - and I believe the radius rod bracket mount angles are the same as 33/34 (not sure here?).

The late 32 rear is like the 33/34 rears - except the torque tube and driveshaft are shorter. This is a much better/stronger rear end than the early 32 rear . . . which is pretty much a 'Model A' style rear.
 
Gabalus said:
Does anyone break an axle ?
Used ? Rusty ? Too much torque ?
Click to expand...

I have broken 3 in the last couple years 2 of them were my stupidity one slipping the clutch and the other doing a donut the other just took off from the light . I do recommend the drake drum retaining safty bracket. I would get them from Vern Tardell the original maker and great guy.
 
Have to ask why the shims? I know model a guys use them for the juice brakes rather then cut the drum or lip. They are fine to use and really only issue is the keyway and make sure it's not sloppy. You most likely shear a key rather then snap a axle end .
 
Rear drums touch backing plates. I put conical shims on axle shafts.
Before running, I'll remove parts to be sure !
Is-it dangerous to use those axle shaft ?
 
There is always the possibility of an axle breaking, I would always use a retainer. The damage to a car can be significant when an axle breaks.
 
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