32 ford rearend change?

More then one way to skin a cat. You can grind or mill the outer lip of your backing plates or turn down the lip on your drum to solve your issue .
 
Hi ChopTop30. There is more to installing a 40 rear than just bolting it in. I have done a few of these in 32's. If you are building a Mild Full Fendered Hot Rod,with big and little tires, there are 2 advantages to a 40 rear . Both of the advantages are for looks only. #1 is you can move the rear back a little from stock so the wheel/tire is centered front to back in the fender . The stock 32 rear is pushed forward in the fender a little . #2 is the 40 rear is wider so it fills the fender nicely and comes out to the edge of the fender when you have a bigger tire. This is all assuming you are going to run a stock 40 style wheel . Obviously, if you are running no fenders and aftermarket wheels, none of this matters. Installing a 40 rear is not a direct fit either. Back to being able to center the wheel/tire , front to rear in the fender. The 40 spring needs to be ground on to fit the stock 32 cross member . The front and back of the spring both need massaged but it is a pretty easy deal and this lets you center the rear end in the fender. Next, the stock 40 rear wish bones will not work very well on a 32, they are to long. You would need to get a set of 46-48 rear wish bones that are are shorter. The rear of the bones will bolt on but because they are shorter , you need to relocate the front mounting point on the torque tube. Speaking of torque tube, which ever torque tube you use will need to be modified. The stock 32 will be a little short from moving the rear back a little and the 40 tube will be way long. Then we have the drive line which will need to be modified because the rear end spline is different. So, it is all doable but the 40 rear doesn't just bolt in. You need to tell us whether you are running fenders, what wheels? and tire sizes ? then I could give you a few more pluses and minus's. If the 32 is going to remain stock besides the warmed over Flathead, I would stick with the stock 32 rear. Tell us more about your project ??
 
vulture said:
Have to ask why the shims? I know model a guys use them for the juice brakes rather then cut the drum or lip. They are fine to use and really only issue is the keyway and make sure it's not sloppy. You most likely shear a key rather then snap a axle end .
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Gota say that there is a big problem with the shims, these are a very bad idea, the hub to axle fit is very, very important. Lapping the hub to axle for a perfect fit is often recommend and required. When this fit is perfect you could omit the axle key, torque the hub to spec, and it'll be as good as it can be. The key should not be the driving part in this setup, the drive is transmitted through the taper fit of the hub and axle. The use of a shim here compromises the taper fit integrity severely.
If your shearing axle keys, the hub don't fit properly or the hub nut is to loose.
Torque spec as follows,
Tighten to 200 lb ft then contue to next cotter hole lines up, slip the cotter in, take your creation for a drive, pull the cotter, 're torque , and repeat till the hub nut didn't tighten, slip the cotter in and your golden. Don't exceed 275 lb and don't back the nut to line the holes, always tighten.
This is the proper way. Shims or below torque values will compromise the strength, and leads to the wheel falling off.
If the hub is tightened correctly as above, the hub will be a real bit#h to get off if you need to, only the proper tool will get it off without damage. Even with that, your gonna swear a lot.
Martin.
 
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