Ford 94 Carburator Issue?

vespaholic

vespaholic

Senior Member
I hope I'm not wearing out my welcome tonight, but I have another question.
While looking for a place to connect my vacuum gauge I noticed an issue with my rear carb.
The circled linkage in the picture below (not my picture) was not connected at the bottom.
2 Questions:
1) What does this linkage do?
2) What happens if it's not connected as mine was.
Seemed to run better once I reconnected it but that could just be my imagination.
The car left me stranded with what I though was vapor lock the other day.
3rd Question, could this linkage not being connected have caused my problem?
Thank again!
 

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That linkage operates the accelerator pump above it. I don't know how essential it is in a two carb set up that sounds like you have. I have no experience with that. Someone who has may tell. I know if it's not hooked up on a solo carb the engine will hesitate and maybe even die with any attempt to accelerate without that little squirt of gas the accelerator pump gives.

Carburetor2_zps5qvn0qxu.jpg
 
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I have dual carbs recently rebuilt by the best Charlie NY. When I got them back Charlie said if I had a flat spot when accelerating to move the linkage over one spot. So Old HENRY I think your spot on with your reply.
 
adileo said:
I have dual carbs recently rebuilt by the best Charlie NY. When I got them back Charlie said if I had a flat spot when accelerating to move the linkage over one spot. So Old HENRY I think your spot on with your reply.
Click to expand...

Sounds like even with a multiple carb set up you get better acceleration with all accelerator pumps working.

As adileo said, there is even an adjustment of how much squirt you get with the pump. The linkage can be moved between the three holes on the accelerator lever as shown. The rear hole #1 moves the pump less for less gas and #3 moves it the most for the biggest squirt. I like a big squirt for strongest acceleration so always leave mine at #3.

Here's the link that you can get and easily snap it in:

http://www.macsautoparts.com/ford_m...d-v8-90-100-hp-holley-94-and-92-and-2100.html

64-20270.jpg
 
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Thanks guys, that explains a lot.
It definitely accelerates smoother with it attached.
Now for the $50 question.
Could the one on the rear carb being disconnected make the car not run and act as if it was either out of gas or had vapor lock?
Furthermore would adding an electric inline fuel pump "fix" the problem when really it was the accelerator pump not being connected?
Thanks
 
vespaholic said:
Thanks guys, that explains a lot.
It definitely accelerates smoother with it attached.
Now for the $50 question.
Could the one on the rear carb being disconnected make the car not run and act as if it was either out of gas or had vapor lock?
Furthermore would adding an electric inline fuel pump "fix" the problem when really it was the accelerator pump not being connected?
Thanks
Click to expand...

The accelerator pump does nothing except when accelerating. Its absence would not affect the steady running of the engine at any speed nor cause the engine to die as if out of gas. An electric inline fuel pump would not fix the stumbling acceleration that the absence of the accelerator pump would cause, but, it would fix a true vapor lock problem if that's what you have.

A fairly reliable and easy test to diagnose vapor lock is, when the engine dies, pour water on the mechanical fuel pump to cool it down. If the engine then starts right up it was vapor lock. If not, it could still be vapor lock in the fuel line leading up to the mechanical pump (I've only had that on a 8ba engine in a 51 Custom). More likely, if the engine won't start after cooling down the mechanical fuel pump it is something else.
 
The accelerator pump is more targeted than Henry states. It only gets used at the beginning of the acceleration, when you mash the pedal. It gives a squirt of neat fuel straight down the carb throat. This overcomes a flat spot that you can have when suddenly opening the throttle. After the first second (or slightly longer, don't know the exact figure), the carb relies on it's jets to deliver the fuel and in this instance, (accelerating), the power valve will be in operation that gives the extra enrichment required when hard acceleration is demanded.

So, the short version is, no, the linkage being disconnected will not cause the issue you describe.

If when refitting the link, you still have a flat spot when mashing the pedal, move the links out to the next hole. You have a choice of 3 holes. Both links in the middle hole seems to work for me, but you need to experiment and judge for yourself.

You should be able to mash the pedal to the floor and feel instant acceleration.

It's amazing how hard you can be on these old cars and they just lap it up.

Mart.
 
@ Old Henry & Mart: Thanks for the replies.
I'll play around with the hole positions after I get the electric fuel pump installed.
I'm 99% sure I have a vapor lock issue.
When the car stopped running I checked the tank (almost full) then the carbs (totally dry).
I waited until it cooled down a bit and it started back up and ran fine until it got hot again.
Took a long time to go 1 mile home.
I'm still learning my way around this car.
It's my first flathead and it was set up as a race car for the TROG so I'm sure it will need a bit of tweaking.
Thanks again!
 
Old Henry said:
Sounds like even with a multiple carb set up you get better acceleration with all accelerator pumps working.

As adileo said, there is even an adjustment of how much squirt you get with the pump. The linkage can be moved between the three holes on the accelerator lever as shown. The rear hole #1 moves the pump less for less gas and #3 moves it the most for the biggest squirt. I like a big squirt for strongest acceleration so always leave mine at #3.

Here's the link that you can get and easily snap it in:

http://www.macsautoparts.com/ford_m...d-v8-90-100-hp-holley-94-and-92-and-2100.html

64-20270.jpg
Click to expand...


Professor. How do you change the position? I can't figure out how to take it off?

thanks
GB
 
Thanks Bassman.

RIP Lemmy. Saw him in New Plymouth in 2007, couldn't wait for him to come back but that will never happen now. That Richenbacker sure is a monster too.

GB
 
I finally had a chance to play with the carbs.
I moved the Accelerator Pump Link to position #3 on both carbs.
HOLY SHIP!!! What a difference in acceleration.
It made the car almost like a contemporary car.
The links on both carbs are a little loose.
Can they be tightened or do I need to replace them?
Thanks
 
Graeme / New Zealand said:
Thanks Bassman.

RIP Lemmy. Saw him in New Plymouth in 2007, couldn't wait for him to come back but that will never happen now. That Richenbacker sure is a monster too.

GB
Click to expand...
Graeme, Probably alot of guys don't know who he is...LOL Yep one of the greatest bass players. R I P Lemmy!
 
vespaholic said:
I finally had a chance to play with the carbs.
I moved the Accelerator Pump Link to position #3 on both carbs.
HOLY SHIP!!! What a difference in acceleration.
It made the car almost like a contemporary car.
The links on both carbs are a little loose.
Can they be tightened or do I need to replace them?
Thanks[/QUOTE

As long as the pins are in all the way, your fine.
Click to expand...
 
@adileo: That's the issue. The one on the rear carb jiggles off when I drive.
Now that being said that was when it was in position #2.
We'll see how it goes in position #3 as it feels a little bit more secure.
 
vespaholic said:
@adileo: That's the issue. The one on the rear carb jiggles off when I drive.
Now that being said that was when it was in position #2.
We'll see how it goes in position #3 as it feels a little bit more secure.
Click to expand...


Oh - take two needle nose pliers and bend slightly inward. Then push back in place. I believe you can also buy new replacements online.
 
I still believe a lot of Vapour lock problems are a poor performing mechanical pump or air leaks in the line ,hot fuel only escalates the problem .If you insist on a electrical pump here is one of the best out there no pressure regulator needed as its rated at 2,1/2psi solid state Rated for vintage cars .6 volt 12 volt .Ted
 

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I'm no expert but 1 to 2 sounds too low. Especially with dual carbs. I run my duals at 3.
 
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