1936 oil pump help

With so little push going on I would next look at the front plug of the main tube. If it is missing, from a friend's experience it results in about what you are seeing...the barest trace of pressure, in his case enough that no damage resulted.
With long type pump, I don't think you would have priming troubles.
 
Bruce Lancaster said:
None of the long pumps or pre-8BA pumps had their own relief...they were regulated by the relief valve in the valley.
Click to expand...

That made me a little suspicious about finding the parts in the oilsump and i was curious if they had it apart and misplaces the relief valve.

If the seat of the relief valve is real bad or they replaced the part in the pan with something not fitting right....
 
Hi Bruce
That is incorrect. I have the long pump in a 59 block with the relief in the pump. I also have a long pump with No relief valve.
In the running engine, I use the long pump with relief and then made the valley relief adjustable, for ease of adjustment in the event I want more or less pressure.
 
If the spring and bolt found in the oil pan are to that pump that would explain the oil pressure issues!
 
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Here is the oil pump.
 

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Thanks
That is the long pump without the pressure relief valve.
I have no idea what your oil pressure problem is now
 
There must be some major issue here not just to heavy oil...
Check so all bearings and plugs and the bushing for the pumprod is there...
 
Update:

We bought a new "shorty" oil pump and the new pick up tube. The problem is that the pick up is hitting the oil baffle. Can I remove this oil baffle in the bottom of the oil pan?
 
yes remove the baffle..ck crank to pickup tube clearance and set pan on temporarily to be sure the screen is as close to the pan as possible without hitting it...sometimes the tube needs tweeking.
 
The drive gear on the rear of the cam isn't spinning, is it? I didn't see anyone mention this as a possibility...

Karl
 
Quick update. I replaced the long body pump with a new short body pump and pickup. I did have to cut out some of the baffles and bend the tubing to make it fit. I made sure it was not hitting the crankshaft. I put 20w-50 valvoline zr1 racing oil back in it. I had a simple $20 bosch mechanical oil pump gauge, but I went to grainger and got another liquid pressure gauge that reads 0-30 psi and put it on instead. I now have about 5 psi cold and 2.5 psi when hot. I have not driven it. When I do rev it up, it will get to 5 psi hot. I also added one can of SeaFoam to the crankcase oil to clean it out. I have run it at idle for about 15-20 minutes at a time. I have done this about 6 or seven times. Just waiting for it to cool down to try a short little drive.
 
Pumprod bushing totally gone is another option.
Think i said it before...hook up your compressor to the oilpressure switch port and listen for a major leak.
With intake of a broken pumprod bushing should be heard so should oil and air coming back from any missing plug.
That way you know what end to start disecting...
 
Do you have to remove the engine block to get out the pump rod bushing? I will try the air compressor. I have to bring mine from the shop down here. The switch port, is that the same place you hook the gauges up to? Once again thanks for all your help.
 
I think pushrod bushing is an unlikely suspect...I'ver never seen one worn through, just a little sloppy. You can see it and look down it from above with engine in car.
Go for likelier stuff...that front plug is STILL the likeliest suspect for a big internal leak.
 
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