Engine Install: First Few Attempts

sethkestenbaum

Well-known member
If you are going to fail, do so greatly! I apparently can't get my engine back into the car. Four attempts were made today only resulting in two scratched motor mounts and one scratch oil pan. I have the tools (engine hoist with tilter, frame spreader, guide bolts, jacks, etc). I have a rebuilt engine and new motor mount rubbers.

1) I can get enough of an angle on the transmission to line up the spline IF the engine spreader is in place.
2) I can't get the engine in between the motor mounts (and was hoping to do so with the spreader which can't be used if the transmission is jacked up.)

I have removed the front motor mount to gain more room.

Thoughts? Recommendations?
 
I put a 4 x 4 across the top of the trans. between the bell housing and shift tower with a notch for the shift tower, 2 vertical 4 x 4's inside the frame and a 4 x 4 across the bottom of the trans. bolted and nailed all this mess together where needed and used a 3/4" bolt and nut connector as a screw jack between the top horiz. 4 x 4 and the vertical 4 x 4 and the same on the bottom. Got and extra 1/4" spread and the engine dropped right in. Had to do it two times because of a brain fart and put the ring gear on backwards like a dumb a** the first time - BE SURE TO CHECK
 
I've got the local model a guru (John Karel) coming over tomorrow to help out. I suspect it is something simple. It was also suggested that I install the engine by removing one motor mount and then using the spreader after the install to reinstall the mount. This may have been the way to go today.... I opted to scratch up both mounts instead.
 
I just did an engine install by myself . I used a high lift jack to spread the frame a little and this allowed the engine to drop into place with a little prying . Front motor mount on but loose . I had to fight getting the bolts on the rear mounts to start .. Jacks and furniture clamps and its in Just finished . I still need to tighten everything but it hot and I need a break . I should note that I'm just dealing with a frame no body .
 

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You shouldn't need guide bolts
Using them increases the distance to get things laid in.
It's easy to line up the trans input by looking through the inspection cover opening
I then jiggle things together with a line up punch
I always leave both mounts on,, removing one just makes for extra work later
 
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Seth,

No words of wisdom I can pass due to ignorance but in putting my stipe shocks on each took me 6-8 attempts... and the last one was the biggest pain in the ___! Hang in there, you're doing great... Good luck...
 
How about loosening the cowl to frame bolts so your not trying
to spread the body and frame??

Bob
 
Also, raise one rear wheel and put the trans in gear. By turning the rear wheel you align the transmission shaft to the clutch plate.
And a floor jack under the bell housing will help mate the engine to the transmission.
I envy those that have an adjustable engine hoist that you can vary the angle of the engine with.
 
I installed my motor with transmission with a little help from my wife. Once I confirmed I spread the frame enough I asked my wife to push the engine back after I lined up the u-joint. I spent two hours trying to do this alone and it only took five minutes with her help.
Patience, patience, patience!!!!
 
Transmission Jack, Frame Spreader, Guide Bolts, & a Friend. All ingredients for a successful engine install.
 
I don't recall any problems installing my engine, but I'm using the apparently controversial Float-A-Motor mounts.
 
Seth,

No words of wisdom I can pass due to ignorance but in putting my stipe shocks on each took me 6-8 attempts... and the last one was the biggest pain in the ___! Hang in there, you're doing great... Good luck...

this is interesting----what caused the difficulty getting the shocks installed?
 
all of this is puzzling to me, after you see movies of the assembly line and the engine dropped in with just a gentle push.....what is different now?
 
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