New guy with lots to learn.

Menace Kustoms said:
Oh, I did the idle mixture adjustments, the screws were fully seated! It does run more smoothly, but it smells really rich, is that normal for these cars?
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I don't have an air/fuel mixture meter, which is the best information about mixture, so I monitor my spark plugs. Too dark is too rich. Too light is too lean. Medium tan color is best.
 
What an inheritance!!! She's a beauty. Regarding the hoses and any other parts you may need I would recommend you contact C&G Ford in Escondido. http://cgfordparts.com/ They're good people who will take some time with you to discuss your needs.
 
I found two power valves that operate smoothly and aren't torn (several were dried up and no good). They seem to have different spring tensions. Are there different styles? They look identical, other than the stiffer feeling springs.
 
Those are not power valves. A power valve is short, compact to the body, and has a center mounted diaphragm that operates from vacuum. To check one when you find it, test the diaphragm sucking it against your tongue. If it holds, it's good. One direction, not both.
 
As far as I have researched, and according to Hot Rod Magazine, these are power valves, the left is a correct early model, the center is a later model that doesn't seat properly, and the one on the right is a spark control valve found on Load-O-Matic compatible carbs.



This is what was in my carb, looks like a Spark Control Valve to me.



I replaced it with one of the ones I posted before, and it doesn't run nearly as rich. If it isn't a power valve, what is it?
 
Look on the other side, the power valves have one central hole. The diameter can differ, but it's always one central hole.

The spark control valve has a metal cover with a ring of smaller holes.

The power valves come from many different sources and there are many variants, the botton line is that they should shut off the flow of fuel at a pre determined level of vacuum. Physical appearance may differ but the effect should always be the same.

Mart,
 
All of them have one central hole. The car idles great now, doesn't die coming to a stop, but stumbles badly at low rpm acceleration. Mid range RPM is great.
 
Menace, you are exactly where I was when I first got my 32 going. That stumble might be the accelerator pump not working right. Take off the air cleaner, look down the carb and pump the linkage. If the squirter squirts, that's not the prob. If it doesn't, its easy to take out the plunger and oil the leather cup and improve it. I'm not so good on the little ball valve at the bottom of the pump well, but it can get dirt in it.
 
Menace Kustoms said:
I am the proud owner of a 1934 Ford that I inherited from my wife's grandfather. It's a great car that he had lovingly owned and cared for over a 50 year time span. I didn't realize that I would be inheriting it, so I didn't ask as many questions as I should have when he was still alive. Now comes the steep learning curve. The car has a 59AB in it with a Ford 94, it's also been updated with juice brakes and 12V electrical.



It has some running and drivability issues. Whenever I come to a stop, the car dies. If I feather the throttle, it'll stay running, but if not, it dies every time. I put a new fuel filter on it, new plugs, cap and rotor. I also installed a distributor that was in the garage that was freshly rebuilt. It also stumbles under acceleration, especially from lower RPM under load. What are some baseline tuning steps that I should take to find out if the carb and everything else is working properly.



Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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This sure looks like a GATES #21253 hose on this '36 Ford. Sure does look like it would fit your space pretty well. DD

225024
 
Those are power valves. The spark valve has an odd shiny sticky out middle and you can't see the spring.
As for numbers, turn him spring side down, your now lookin at the round hole. On this face you should have numbers stamped small, just single numbers separated. For instance if it's got A 7 and a 5 it's a 7.5, the lightest felling spring will open later. Heaviest one opens sooner.
If you think it's the power valve that's causing you a stumble (usually lean) then you want a heavier spring pressure, this will allow the enrichment to come in at a higher vacuum number.
Before rastling with this, check the accelerator pump shot. Should be instant.
Martin.
 
Accelerator pump is working fine, plenty of fuel down the throat. The carb is still apart because I needed a new gasket and now I'm out of town until Wednesday. I want to get it back together with the new valve, and new gaskets and see where I'm at. I also want to check the rod position for the accelerator pump and see if it's in the right hole and everything. I feel like I'm close, just not 100% there yet.
 
Welcome! Beautiful car...never sell it...pass it on to your children..keep in family
Because you are starting out Maybe you should purchase a complete rebuilt carb for approx 400$, check on here for a guy that sells original rebuilt Stromberg 48 carbs, and then you can just attached it to your engine. ..but keep the original to learn on yourself and rebuild it too to install later?

Good place for rebuild kits
http://www.stromberg-carburetors.co...ry=US&areanum=1&pnum=9510A-BLK&strqty=11&nn=0
 
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