waterboychuck
Well-known member
I really like the colors of the car. Work on the carb and I think that you'll be okay.
New guy with lots to learn.
- Thread starter Menace Kustoms
- Start date
Old Henry
Well-known member
Before you start chucking or totally rebuilding carburetors try a simple idle mixture adjustment. May be all it takes. Mine was acting just like yours recently and this is all mine took.
Here's a video I made of how to set the idle speed to 600 RPMs by counting 25 revolutions of the generator/pump belt in 10 seconds: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9AH08k0pvdE
Here's a video I made of how to set the idle speed to 600 RPMs by counting 25 revolutions of the generator/pump belt in 10 seconds: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9AH08k0pvdE
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Talkwrench
Well-known member
Your very lucky.. drive it and love it.. Whatever your problem is it sounds very minor , just a carb rebuild and a clean out I would say.. good luck with it.
Mike in AZ
Well-known member
welcome to the 'Barn....beautiful car....congratulations.....get it running and driving like your wife's grandfather had it going before and enjoy the heck out of it....Mike
TerryOH
Well-known member
The problem does sound as if it is the Carb. I guess the car starts and idles OK, just will not go back to idle. Sounds like fuel level in the float bowl may be low, check the level and make sure the input valve, needle is not Vitron tipped, you want all steel. Dayton sells a good rebuilding kit, or Charlie, NY is the 94 expert. The other Carb. sounds like the accelerator pump may be not working properly?? If you examine it make sure the accelerator pump is leather and not plastic or Vitron.
Menace Kustoms
Member
I've had the car for a little while already, and I've been driving it around a good amount, at least once a week. I'm sure the carb needs to be gone through, so I'll probably do one of my cores and just swap it out. He drove it pretty regularly up until about 3 years ago, so it didn't sit for a super long time. Just need to source good quality rebuild kits.
As for the coolant hoses, he did the 24 stud swap a long time ago, and I don't think there were hoses readily available that accommodated the newer style engine in the older car. But, that's conjecture on my part. I'm not a fan of them, I think there are better solutions out there. He also had a giant plastic overflow bottle that I've since eliminated. You can see the modern voltage regulator in the picture, I also painted that green to blend in a little more and tidied up the wiring.
As for the coolant hoses, he did the 24 stud swap a long time ago, and I don't think there were hoses readily available that accommodated the newer style engine in the older car. But, that's conjecture on my part. I'm not a fan of them, I think there are better solutions out there. He also had a giant plastic overflow bottle that I've since eliminated. You can see the modern voltage regulator in the picture, I also painted that green to blend in a little more and tidied up the wiring.
41panelmark
Well-known member
Welcome to the bunch.
That's a matter of opinion, the Stromberg is a more robust, simpler, easy to get to run "ok" in multiple setups, in the hands of regular Joe. Has a stronger power valve set-up. Has an inferior float setup and stupid way to set the float hight. The fuel curve isn't much cop, it can be good at the top, but bad at the bottom, or vice versa, not good all the way through. The power valve trigger is unrelated to engine demand.
In my opinion.
The 94 is a more efficient carb, better on mpg for the same power, flows more, better float, better way to set the float hight, can handle more fuel pressure, fuel curve is good.
Power valve system is weak against carb backfire, and more difficult to setup in multiple carb setups, lots of ill fitting valves out there. Power valve system is related to engine demand IF the correct rated valve is fitted.
In my opinion.
97's fit every multi carb intake manifolds, 94's don't fit as many.
Mostly down to preference.
This is not to take away from the complexity to correctly rebuild either carb. They both need a real good understanding to do this job properly. The 97 is easyer to "through a kit in it" and "fix it" than the 94, but this isn't to be mistaken for a correct rebuild.
Martin.
Mart
Well-known member
Interesting to read Scooder's comments, I've only ever used 94s, and can vouch for them taking a little care and attention to get them to run right. Lapping all the surfaces flat and making sure the power valve is working correctly goes a long way to getting them to run sweet. That and making sure the needle valve is working properly.
Mart.
Mart.
Tom Walker
Senior Member
Martin, I'm pretty sure this has been covered on previous threads but prob bears revisiting.... when I did my Holley 94 rebuild as a total novice, I found the power valve fitting thing very confusing. Am I right in saying that a power valve for a modern Holley will kind of fit but wont seal properly so if you're not careful, can be installed then produce a leaky carb. And the kind of leak which is bad ie in the throat of the carb straight down the intake?
I seem to remember being able to hold the diaphragm housing of the modern PV in my lathe and turn a serviceable seat for the sealing washer.
Presumably there are PVs available for 94's with the correct seat. Just thought this might be worth a mention.
I seem to remember being able to hold the diaphragm housing of the modern PV in my lathe and turn a serviceable seat for the sealing washer.
Presumably there are PVs available for 94's with the correct seat. Just thought this might be worth a mention.
Tom,
Yes a 4bbl Holley powered valve will screw in "kinda fit" on most 94's. On early 94's the 4bbl PV will not clear inside the float chamber wall, there's enough meat to clearance grind here to clear.
The 4bbl power valve doesn't seat in a 94, as you said, can be chucked in a lathe and cut to work. However if the 4bbl PV is a big window (high flow) type, the cut does weaken the PV at this new corner, this can lead to the PV returning to component form when you nip it up. I know this due to experience! Unfortunately these "big window" chaps are the ones normally supplied in the differing vacuum amounts, The Charlie Price ones (Vintage speed) are these type and the cut is deep, very weak.
If you need to cut it, take the absolute minimum off, and try not to get a sharp corner.
The fuel from the power valve is metered by the power valve restriction channels that are 0.032" in the 94 other than the big buggers with the big round annular boosters, these are 0.025", makes a mockery of the need for big window PV's.
If the PV is not the correct type and has not been cut for seating, the fuel will dribble down the inside of the inlet manifold.
There are correct PV's available from some suppliers of Vintage carb stuff (Daytona being the king by all accounts). Some of the other kits come occasionally with a PV that will work as is, but this is a luck of the draw, and more not than often.
Mart,
your bang on the money, lapping the sealing surfaces makes a big difference. The bottom of the float chamber must be properly flat. A vacuum leak here obviously buggers with the "timing" of the PV opening, the PV see less vacuum at a given load due to this vacuum leak.
Doubleing the gaskets or thicker gaskets to "fix" a warped casting only makes the casting more warped, due to the tightening of the scews to make the thicker gaskets to seal.
Fix it properly.
Martin.
Yes a 4bbl Holley powered valve will screw in "kinda fit" on most 94's. On early 94's the 4bbl PV will not clear inside the float chamber wall, there's enough meat to clearance grind here to clear.
The 4bbl power valve doesn't seat in a 94, as you said, can be chucked in a lathe and cut to work. However if the 4bbl PV is a big window (high flow) type, the cut does weaken the PV at this new corner, this can lead to the PV returning to component form when you nip it up. I know this due to experience! Unfortunately these "big window" chaps are the ones normally supplied in the differing vacuum amounts, The Charlie Price ones (Vintage speed) are these type and the cut is deep, very weak.
If you need to cut it, take the absolute minimum off, and try not to get a sharp corner.
The fuel from the power valve is metered by the power valve restriction channels that are 0.032" in the 94 other than the big buggers with the big round annular boosters, these are 0.025", makes a mockery of the need for big window PV's.
If the PV is not the correct type and has not been cut for seating, the fuel will dribble down the inside of the inlet manifold.
There are correct PV's available from some suppliers of Vintage carb stuff (Daytona being the king by all accounts). Some of the other kits come occasionally with a PV that will work as is, but this is a luck of the draw, and more not than often.
Mart,
your bang on the money, lapping the sealing surfaces makes a big difference. The bottom of the float chamber must be properly flat. A vacuum leak here obviously buggers with the "timing" of the PV opening, the PV see less vacuum at a given load due to this vacuum leak.
Doubleing the gaskets or thicker gaskets to "fix" a warped casting only makes the casting more warped, due to the tightening of the scews to make the thicker gaskets to seal.
Fix it properly.
Martin.
AnthonyG
Well-known member
You need a new handle " One Lucky Dude". That is a beautiful ride you inherited. Visit that mans grave often and place many flowers!!! As others have said most of these beauty's never get enough road time and too much garage time. Gas tank gets cruddy over the years and the dirt crud gets to the carb. in your case sounds like it's only the idle screws you've got a prob with. Probably crud clogging up the idle screws. Screw them in and count the revoutions and make a note. Then pull them out and blow them clean with 90 psi air, receiving holes in carb as well. Then put them back at the same revolutions out to where they where. My bet is it will run at idle fine after that. if needed for the right rich lean mix on the screws, lot's written on how to adjust correctly. If it works but happens again it's the gas tank ( common ), take out and properly have professionally cleaned or replace. Wishing I was you. Good luck, enjoy, and definitely take good care of that precious beauty. Your the new curator.
Menace Kustoms
Member
Ok, I found my two best, most complete carbs for rebuilding. They are both 94s, but one is a Model 59 and the other is a EAB. The EAB seems like it's in nicer overall shape, less slop, smoother movements. Is one of these better than the other?
Menace Kustoms
Member
Oh, I did the idle mixture adjustments, the screws were fully seated! It does run more smoothly, but it smells really rich, is that normal for these cars?
ford38v8
Well-known member
The #59 is the one you need. Same basic carburetor, but the controls of the 59 are different, and the EAB has a vacuum advance for the later distributor that you don't want on yours.
It smells rich? There is no mixture adjustment other than in the idle circuit. You may have a blown power valve, that would make it run rich. You should have a spare power valve on hand anyway, so get one from Datona or one of the suppliers mentioned here. Check yours for a blown diaphram, as it's a common occurrence.
It smells rich? There is no mixture adjustment other than in the idle circuit. You may have a blown power valve, that would make it run rich. You should have a spare power valve on hand anyway, so get one from Datona or one of the suppliers mentioned here. Check yours for a blown diaphram, as it's a common occurrence.