Driveshaft and rear

J

John Kuhnast

Well-known member
Im looking to replace the driveshaft and rear which has been giving me trouble on my 1931 p1ckup. Will a rear from any year fit? Are there advantages to using any pitucular year? Looking for one within a days drive of northern New Jersey.
 
All years will interchage. There are some different gear ratio's out there that will affect performance. The early banjo does not have the added strength of the gusset and are sometimes cracked. What would be wrong with rebuilding the one you have? Just curios. Rod
 
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I agree with Roudy. Have the one you have rebuilt and then you know what you have. Ask local clubs for a good rebuilder. I would change to 3.54 gears while I was at it. As far as interchangeability any Model A rear end will interchange but you definitely need to read the restoration guidelines if you are building a show car as there are minor cosmetic differences. By the way, what trouble is your rear end giving you?

Charlie Stephens
 
That without knowing what all it needs is a crap shoot. Also gear selection will make a huge difference ranging from $375-$635 depeing on ratio.
These prices are from Bratton's catalog. I normally use Bert's for parts, but have not recived a current catalog from them since 2005 although I have requested one several times.

Bearings X4 $40 each
Races X2 $23 each
Dbl race X1 $55
Drive Roller Bearing $11
Roller Race $6
Then add seals, gaskets and hope the rest is ok
I do not see new spider gears listed, but last new set was over $75, these do not always need replaced
Axles, carriers and such I should have good used ones if needed. Building a good rearend is not a cheap propsition and is time consuming, but the peace of ming knowing it is right is priceless IMHO. Rod
 
TinCup said:
What would parts typically cost just ballpark there will be no audit. :)
Click to expand...

Rod is pretty close on his $$ amounts. We get $1850.00 for a completely rebuilt rear end assembly with a one year warranty. What you get from us is your unit dismantled, degreased, media-blasted and powdercoated in your choice of gloss or semi-gloss Black. The internals include a new Ring & Pinion (your choice of 3.78 or 3.54 ratio), new axles, all new bearings & races, new seals, the driveshaft straightened, housings trued, axle shafts thrusts clearanced, and a few other things. The only things that are extra is if the housing's hub bearing races need to be replaced, or if the shock balls need to be replaced, --or if the spring hanger perches need to be restored.

The only other thing that needs to be mentioned is that new 'spider gears' are no longer available.


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I think I know of a place that has a couple of sets left. Going to call them today and see for sure. Rod
 
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Snyders list the spider gears in their catalog. Did you know that except for the oil holes in the later spider gears they are the same as Model T.
 
The rear and shaft in my A are from a 1939. There is a cupling on the shaft just ahead of the rear. This has broken on me three times.Its starting to get to me.
 
The 1928 Ford Model T parts book shows the T number for the spider gear and the A number. T number is 2524-C A number is A4215.
 
I made that discovery about 15 years ago when helping a freind with his 26 T. I checked my source today and no spider gears there. Will check with Snyders next week sometime. Rod
 
John: obviously you are not stock, is the whole rearend a 39 with a shortened torque tube/driveshaft? If so are you running the support bearing inside the torque tube, if not, that may be contributing to your problem. Hope this may help.
Paul in CT
 
Flamingo You are correct. I think thats what is happening. Do you have any knowledge about the bearing made by the gentleman in Florida?
 
John: Sorry, I do not, maybe go over to the early V8 forum or the HAMB, I'm sure there are some over there running modified torque tubes in A-V8's, there is a separate "banger" section on the HAMB. Hope this helps.
Paul in CT Keep us posted, please.
 
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