installing new timing gear

It's an upside down picture, but it does seem to match the Model A timing picture I've posted.
 

Attachments

  • Timing Marks.jpg
    Timing Marks.jpg
    78 KB · Views: 73
looks like the timing gear dimple lines up with the crank gear tooth
to the right of the keyway like Tom's picture.:confused:

Bob
 
The picture is very poor. A better view of the keyway slot in the slinger would help . It does appear that it could be off one tooth. If this is truly the case it will have a bad effect on how the engine runs .
 
Purdy Swoft said:
The picture is very poor. A better view of the keyway slot in the slinger would help . It does appear that it could be off one tooth. If this is truly the case it will have a bad effect on how the engine runs .
Click to expand...

Look at the marked photo.. Yellow highlights index marks on both gears
 

Attachments

  • camgear - Copy.jpg
    camgear - Copy.jpg
    36.1 KB · Views: 77
You guys are scaring me. But better to know now before I close it up.
Show I just order a new thrust plunger spring, because I am not able to measure ther tension in my old spring.
 
Here is another picture before I cleaned up the particles on the cam gear sell yellow arrows
 

Attachments

  • CamNew.jpg
    CamNew.jpg
    62.9 KB · Views: 68
OK, you're timed properly if the marks in the photo are showing the alignment and timing marks. A new spring is cheap insurance. Go for it. If your crank gear is pitted, as I mentioned before, I think the only adverse effect will be a little noisier engine; it's unlikely it will do any serious damage to the aluminum gear.
 
I just installed Dan's aluminum gear, like Frank I did not want to pull my engine to do the matched set. My engine is noisier, but I have only run the engine not driven the car since we have 12" of snow. Dan advised me it would make more noise without being matched, and to clamp the gear and not stress the teeth when tightening. I cut pieces of 1" X 1/8 steel bar and was able to clamp the gear and torque the modern nut to the full torque.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0238.jpg
    IMG_0238.jpg
    66.4 KB · Views: 91
I still can't be sure by the pictures. Take a close look at Toms picture in post # 33. Notice the relation with the timing mark on the crankshaft gear with the key that holds the crank gear. You will mostly have to judge by the keyway slot in the oil slinger on your crankshaft because the oil slinger mostly covers the timing mark on the crankshaft gear. Toms picture clearly shows the timing mark on the drivers side of the key. This is what you will have to go by. If you are on the passengers side of the keyway, you will be one tooth off. You are on your own and you will have to make the desision of whether you are on the right side of the keyway. This is the simplest way that I can say it. If it is off one tootrh , it will still run but won't have full power .
 
OL JENNY said:
Got it lined up correct
Click to expand...

WARNING WARNING WARNING

The first thing I noticed in your picture is the worn notch in the oil slinger, and this can only be caused by the slinger not being held tightly in position by the crank pulley. Your picture shows the crank pulley notch is NOT lined up with the keyway. You need to rotate the pulley as you push back until you feel the key engage the pulley notch, then crank it into place by the front bolt/start ratchet.

You must fix this before you do anything else.
 
Last edited:
OL JENNY said:
I just installed Dan's aluminum gear, like Frank I did not want to pull my engine to do the matched set. My engine is noisier, but I have only run the engine not driven the car since we have 12" of snow. Dan advised me it would make more noise without being matched, and to clamp the gear and not stress the teeth when tightening. I cut pieces of 1" X 1/8 steel bar and was able to clamp the gear and torque the modern nut to the full torque.
Click to expand...
Dave's wife held the crank while he torqued the cam nut to 100 Ft Lbs. (It's easy, it's called gear reduction.)
Bill W.
 
This is a very informative thread. Not to change the subject too much,but. How can you take a correct measurement of the cam to crank centerline spacing? I'm going to order a set of dans gears for an engine thats apart ( crank is in but not cam) and want to make sure I don't need the oversized cam gear. The engine is on a stand and I have a cam to put in to get a measurement. any tricks?
Steve
 
Last edited:
earbleeder said:
This is a very informative thread. Not to change the subject too much,but. How can you take a correct measurement of the cam to crank centerline spacing? I'm going to order a set of dans gears for an engine thats apart ( crank is in but not cam) and want to make sure I don't need the oversized cam gear. The engine is on a stand and I have a cam to put in to get a measurement. any tricks?
Steve
Click to expand...

Look at Vince's site. http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/camcrankposition.htm

Bob
 
I understand what the measurements are supposed to be but the problem is how to get an accurate measurement. I measured the crank diameter and the cam flange diameter where I could get venier calipers in a straight line as possible. Divided those diameters in half and subtracted from the total out to out from the crank to cam flange. I got 4.157 but was wondering if there was a more accurate way of doing it. It seems right. maybe I'm overthinking it. I don't want to get a gear set that doesn't fit right (too tight). I guess this should be OK. What do you guys think?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top