Zenith 1 Carb Question

[uss1814]

After alot of thought and aggervation I decided to stay with the original iginition I want the car original if it was good engough for Henry it will be good enough for me as it turned out I had not one but two bad pop out cables. I re-worked the entire system and it started right up and I drove it for the first time in 31 years.

My problem I believe is in the carb which I purchased from a vendor it was an original Zenith type 1 but rebuit. The problem is as soon as I open the idle mixture srew even an 1/8 of a turn and try to start it if it does not catch it floods so bad I have to put a bucket under the carb fuel just pours out the throat.

I bought a complete rebuild kit and went through the entire carb and replaced everything still the same problem.

I came across a note in and old manual that tells you that the snap ring on the idle mixture body must be removed prior to installing. When I removed the old (re-built one) the ring was still on the body.

Can anyone tell me for sure does the snap ring come off or remain on and if I'm installing it with the ring would this cause my problem with the flooding.

I have a new 32 B engine and I'm timing it with the instruction for a series A engine I have read the timing pin location is different from A to B would I be throwing off my timing following the timing instructins for a series A?

Where can I find the proper instructions for timing a series B engine?

Long thread I'm also looking for a good body and paint man here in GA that would like to take on the body for me does any one now one that I can call.

Thanks

John

 

[Ron in Quincy]

The snap ring on the needle housing will not create any problem; some people remove the snap ring so the choke rod turns easier to seat or unset the needle.
The earlier ZENITH-1 housings had a brass removable needle seat, the later housings the needle seat was cast. When the carb was rebuilt, the needle seat closing off and on should have been checked. Usually having the needle seat 1/4 turn open when starting a cold engine is normal; the carb should not flood out as you describe; once the engine is warm there should be no need to open the needle seat. The other time the needle seat is used is climbing a long hill where you need more fuel to the cap jet.

Regarding your 32 engine, if you have a "A" timing gear cover and "A" distributor then timing the engine would be the same as instructed for the "A". If you have a "B" timing gear cover the timing pin is approx 19 degrees advanced over the "A" cover and makes timing difficult.

Ron

 

[cars56]

Zenith 1 here
run at 1/4 turn open, during start 1 full turn open then backed down to a 1/2 turn open