Youth restorer needs help:

Hello all, my name is Jason and I’m a youth restorer working on my 1930 Town Sedan. I’m looking for a new chassis for it, and I found a nice one. I need to know if a 28-29 chassis is different from a 30-31, and if just swapping radiators would do the trick. Thanks!
 
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Runningboard brackets may also be different. 1928-mid-1929 were forged. After that they were stamped. They look entirely different. Same with the front fender brackets, which should still be bolted to the frame rails. The front bumper brackets are longer on '28-29 chassis to allow for taller tires on the 21" wheels. Other differences exist.
Marshall
 
Hello all, my name is Jason and I’m a youth restorer working on my 1930 Town Sedan. I’m looking for a new chassis for it, and I found a nice one. I need to know if a 28-29 chassis is different from a 30-31, and if just swapping radiators would do the trick. Thanks!

Not a good plan. Keep looking for another chassis.
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Are the frames interchangeable? Yes.
There are some different holes - like for the 30-31 brake light switch and as noted some different bracket materials. The front crossmember where the radiator mounts is different but you can swap in your later one if necessary.
The bottom line is good frames are not easy to find (even here in SoCal) so you'll need to do some extra work to "create" one for your car.
 

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The front crossmember is the big difference. On the 28/29 chassis, the pads for mounting the radiator are raised, whereas on the 30/31 chassis, the pads are level with the portion of the crossmember that slides under the upper chassis rail. The 30/31 radiator is taller than the 28/29 radiator, so mounting a 30/31 radiator on a 28/29 front crossmember will lift the radiator and radiator shell too high to get proper hood alignment.

The center crossmember on the 28/29 also does not have mounting holes for mounting and using the 30/31 stoplight (brake light) switch. This is not as big an issue as you can still use the 28/29 stoplight switch which mounts off the transmission tower.
 
Where are you located? A local guy bought a disassembled 1930-31 Roadster to put the body on an already-hotrodded chassis. He wants to sell the original chassis, which includes the frame, front end, rearend and a ton of parts. The chassis is located in SE Iowa across from Illinois. Depending upon how far away you live, this would be a good start on your new chassis. The parts look good, not rusted away. Please go back to your profile and put your location so that others close to you can help. Not knowing where you live may lose you something good close by. I wish Ryan would make it mandatory that when people register here, they also tell where they are located.
Marshall
 
Yeah, that's probably too far to come halfway across the country for these chassis parts. You should be able to find something closer to you. Stay away from rust bucket el cheapo frames and axles. Pay more for quality pieces that need nothing more than TLC and paint.
Marshall
 
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The 1930/31 frames have lower mount pads on the front cross member for the taller radiator. The taller pads on the 28/29 indicate the shorter radiator. Another difference is the type and mounting of the rear E-brake actuator shaft assembly between the two rails. The 30/31 uses a shaft that is more like a plain tube and it mounts differently on the rails compared to the 28/29. It has larger holes in the rails and those holes are flared a bit.

In the 1928/29 time frame, the brake system changed several times and the separate E-brake came in to replace the equalizer brake system. By 1930/31, the frame had it's final changes that it kept for the rest of production.

I would also be concerned with the serial number stamped on the frame. I would look for a 1930 specific frame number so as to keep the year model at least close to the body time frame. There are still frames out there but it usually takes time and a willingness to get what you want.
 
Hello I think on the 1931 frames,the front body angle was moved 2 3/4 inch forward to accommodate the Slant Windshield sedans if my memory is correct. Agree with others to look for a 1930 frame,Welcome to Model A Ford world, good luck on your project and glad younger people are still interested in antiques .
 
I'm curious as to which Town Sedan body the OP has. The Briggs bodies have side windows that are straight across the top where as the Murray Town Sedan bodies have the slight arch shape on the tops of the side windows. The Town Sedan bodies were similar to the 1929 units as production continued into 1930. The gas tanks changed some but not completely so some still had the oval speedometer dash.

Is the original frame rusted away? Was there a title for it with numbers? An FYI is that the late 1930 and early 1931 bodies are basically the same until the slant windshield design was introduced later in 1931. An early 1931 frame might work out if it has good numbers and a possible title.
 
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The front crossmember is the big difference. On the 28/29 chassis, the pads for mounting the radiator are raised, whereas on the 30/31 chassis, the pads are level with the portion of the crossmember that slides under the upper chassis rail. The 30/31 radiator is taller than the 28/29 radiator, so mounting a 30/31 radiator on a 28/29 front crossmember will lift the radiator and radiator shell too high to get proper hood alignment.

The center crossmember on the 28/29 also does not have mounting holes for mounting and using the 30/31 stoplight (brake light) switch. This is not as big an issue as you can still use the 28/29 stoplight switch which mounts off the transmission tower.
Got it, thanks
 
Hello I think on the 1931 frames,the front body angle was moved 2 3/4 inch forward to accommodate the Slant Windshield sedans if my memory is correct. Agree with others to look for a 1930 frame,Welcome to Model A Ford world, good luck on your project and glad younger people are still interested in antiques .
Thank you sir, I'm glad I can preserve these cars too.
 
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