Your opinion on engine replacement method
- Thread starter Bob from Northport
- Start date
Dave in MN
Well-known member
Bob,
Most of the time when changing a Model A engine, I am working alone. I find leaving the transmission in the car makes it much easier to remove and install the engine without help. If you have the transmission on the engine, I would suggest getting the assistance of another person.
I have removed and installed about 18 engines in the last two years due to engine re-building requests. In all cases except installing two in a bare chassis, I have left the transmission in the car. The transmission and the "bellhousing" will hang from the universal joint housing without harming anything. The transmission should be raised and supported with a floor jack when re-installing the engine. An offset frame spreader will help with the installation as it gives you more clearance especially if you replaced the rear engine mounts rubber. Brent’s suggestion for using tapered alignment pins/studs is a good one. I use two in the mid section of the flywheel housing and also use two #3 phillips screwdrivers in the top two holes of the clutch housing. The screwdrivers fit the holes nicely and allow you to use them as alignment drifts to get the bolts started in the other holes as it all comes together. Remove the clutch inspection cover prior to starting the install as you will often need to rotate the input shaft to align with the clutch disc splines. As the engine is maneuvered into place, the transmission will need to be raised to align with the engine coming in at a bit of a slant. Do not try to install the engine with the accelerator mechanism installed on the engine as it may create some nasty scratches on your firewall as the engine is positioned. It is much easier/safer to remove the radiator and light bar when doing this engine work. I’m not getting any younger so I also remove the front bumper to avoid having to step over it when positioning the engine.
You will find pictures of a "Frame spreader you can build" on the services page of my website. (Click on the link below and select the Services page. The frame spreader link is at the bottom of the page.) The offset design allows the transmission to be raised to align with the engine as it is coming together. When working alone, a little extra clearance is helpful to avoid damaging a firewall or scratching the oil pan ...the spreader helps considerably with both. By raising the transmission slightly above its normal position, the needed clearance at the front cross member is increased. The offset design of the spreader gives you this little extra room to raise the transmission without removing the transmission shift tower.
Good Day!
Dave in MN
www.durableperformance.net
Most of the time when changing a Model A engine, I am working alone. I find leaving the transmission in the car makes it much easier to remove and install the engine without help. If you have the transmission on the engine, I would suggest getting the assistance of another person.
I have removed and installed about 18 engines in the last two years due to engine re-building requests. In all cases except installing two in a bare chassis, I have left the transmission in the car. The transmission and the "bellhousing" will hang from the universal joint housing without harming anything. The transmission should be raised and supported with a floor jack when re-installing the engine. An offset frame spreader will help with the installation as it gives you more clearance especially if you replaced the rear engine mounts rubber. Brent’s suggestion for using tapered alignment pins/studs is a good one. I use two in the mid section of the flywheel housing and also use two #3 phillips screwdrivers in the top two holes of the clutch housing. The screwdrivers fit the holes nicely and allow you to use them as alignment drifts to get the bolts started in the other holes as it all comes together. Remove the clutch inspection cover prior to starting the install as you will often need to rotate the input shaft to align with the clutch disc splines. As the engine is maneuvered into place, the transmission will need to be raised to align with the engine coming in at a bit of a slant. Do not try to install the engine with the accelerator mechanism installed on the engine as it may create some nasty scratches on your firewall as the engine is positioned. It is much easier/safer to remove the radiator and light bar when doing this engine work. I’m not getting any younger so I also remove the front bumper to avoid having to step over it when positioning the engine.
You will find pictures of a "Frame spreader you can build" on the services page of my website. (Click on the link below and select the Services page. The frame spreader link is at the bottom of the page.) The offset design allows the transmission to be raised to align with the engine as it is coming together. When working alone, a little extra clearance is helpful to avoid damaging a firewall or scratching the oil pan ...the spreader helps considerably with both. By raising the transmission slightly above its normal position, the needed clearance at the front cross member is increased. The offset design of the spreader gives you this little extra room to raise the transmission without removing the transmission shift tower.
Good Day!
Dave in MN
www.durableperformance.net
Last edited:
Brentwood Bob
Well-known member
Dave, nice spreader. Bob
Bob from Northport
Well-known member
Thank all of you for your information and opinions. We have done 9 engines in the past few years, and all but one had the transmission in the car. We just put one back into a 28 Ford Fire engine with the transmission attached to the engine, and it seemed to go easier. I was just curious.
Thank you again for all the help when I have asked.
Bob
Thank you again for all the help when I have asked.
Bob