Yet another electrical issue

An ignition jumper cable that screws into the distributor and clips on to the + side of the coil has helped me test the ignition wires and ignition switch. Before jumpering disconnect the existing ignition wire at the coil and at the distributor. You can get this cable at Bratton's or Schneiders. I had an intermitant problem in the ignition switch that I located using this jumper cable. It's also a great thing to carry in your tool box and get a quick fix if it happens on the road. To stop the engine you can use your disconnect switch or disconnect at the coil. The clip at the coil has a rubber cover so you won't get a shock or short.

Ray in Illinois
 
Here is a temporary wiring setup that should get you going. Run a wire from the the connection of the pop out switch, under the instrument panel to the + side of the coil. Run a wire from the - side of the coil to the post on the starter switch where the negative battery cable connects. Ground the positive battery cable to the fame. Run a wire from the cut out ( not generator post side) to the post of the starter switch where the negative battery cable connects. This will get you running if other stuff is good. When these connections are made, do it with the fan belt off the generator pulley. If the generator begins to motor or pulley turn, this means that the points are stuck in the cutout. If the cut out points are stuck, sometimes tapping on the cutout with a screwdriver handle will un stick them. After you get it running, if you want to check if the generator is working, With the engine running at a fast idle, lift the minus battery cable off the negative post of the battery briefly . If the engine dies, either the generator isn't charging or the engine wasn't running at high enough speed for the generator to begin charging. Other than wiring, the main problem will probably be the condenser and points. A bad condenser burns the points. You may have to replace the points and condenser. If its running the V8 points setup, I would recommend changeing back to the original setup. The V8 condensers are sometimes bad right out of the box and the points ain't much better. Try this and if it doesn't work, report back what type points and condenser you are attempting to run and whether you are using the original pop out or a modern type ignition switch. Another thought is if the battery is slightly weak, it won't have the power to run the starter and fire the points. My temporary wiring bypasses the ammeter. If you have a Brattons catalog, look at the wiring diagram on page 92, this will confirm my plus and minus coil connections. It will run either way that the coil is connected, it will just have weaker spark and not crank as well if the coil connections are reversed. My wiring suggestions are positive ground as original. Good luck.
 
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At this point the car is wired as Jon has described in post #20 and it will start and stay running only 10 sec to couple minutes. It simply dies like I have shut off the switch with key. I do NOT have the wire from generator attached to anything ....so I thought that might be the problem.
 
Paul, yes I do believe I have strong fuel at carb but will be re-checking that tonite. I did check a couple days ago...but something could have happened.

Purdy can you explain what you mean...."Run a wire from the cut out ( not generator post side) to the post of the starter switch where the negative battery cable connects." Not sure what "from the cut out" means. Is that the wire from vol regulator?
 
Benson
GAV was closed last time I tried to start so will open as suggested.
Finally...here is a pic of what I'm working on.
 

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Purdy can you explain what you mean...."Run a wire from the cut out ( not generator post side) to the post of the starter switch where the negative battery cable connects." Not sure what "from the cut out" means. Is that the wire from vol regulator?

If you don't have the generator connected to the battery it can put out
up to 40 volts and burn itself out.
The picture is the cutout.

Bob
 

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Paul, yes I do believe I have strong fuel at carb but will be re-checking that tonite. I did check a couple days ago...but something could have happened.

Purdy can you explain what you mean...."Run a wire from the cut out ( not generator post side) to the post of the starter switch where the negative battery cable connects." Not sure what "from the cut out" means. Is that the wire from vol regulator?

There should be a terminal post on the generator. One side of the cutout connects to this terminal post. Connect a wire at least 14 gauge to the connection on the opposite side of the cut out and run this wire back to the starter. connect this wire to the post of the starter switch where the negative battery cable connects . This will put the generator in the circuit to prevent burning it out. If the generator is turning and charging while not being connected to the battery it will self destruct. Oh yeah that little can looking thing that sits atop the generator should be the cut out unless it has been replaced with an aftermarket can style voltage regulator. Either way the cutout or regulator keeps the currant flowing in one direction if its working. When the generator begins to charge the points will close in the cutout and allow the amperage to flow back through a hot wire to the starter switch and then to the battery. I don't rember the wiring diagram in post 20, not saying that anything is wrong.Just be sure that you connect the battery cables positive ground or you can reverse the polarity of the generator and it won't charge again until repolarized.

Just went back and looked. somehow I overlooked Jons post 20 my appologies my wiring suggestions were almost a carbon copy,. When you are right you are right, whether its Jon er me.
 
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Thanks to Jon, Purdy and all.
Will complete the wiring as suggested and report back. The points, distributor, cut out (not regulator) and all other electrical parts are standard A stuff still using 6v positive ground. Thanks for confirming how to get it to operate w/o the alt meter and such. That is how it was operated starting back in the '50 up unit '70's. Again.. many thanks.
 
Thanks for keeping us posted. I like your strip down, strip downs can be the most fun of all. Here is a picture of one of mine. Purdy Swoft , loading organic fertilizer.

2058417-T400300.jpg
 
SUCCESS !!!!!!
You guys are the best. After wiring as suggested....it fired right up ....but died after about 30 secs. Decided to recheck the fuel lines.....ding...ding... we have a winner. The fuel line that was running good last week was no more. I opened bottom bowl of carb, disconnected fuel line and unscrewed wire filter and once I reconnected...it ran GREAT.
Not only do I want to thank you for all your help...but also your patients. We now have another '29 alive and well.
Thanks again.
 
If it hasn't already been mentioned, You will probably need the stand up filter that goes in the cut off valve and stands up in the bottom of the gas tank . I use this type filter in mine. I'm glad to hear that you've got it running.
 
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