Yes, they are still out there!!!

Think they are supposed to move more water with less turbulence? Give them a try ,if it leaks ,put some of this epoxy like we put on the intake and smooth it up.think thet ought to be green.Don't know about the set screw,Are the fittings just for looks?
 
Bruce in southern OH said:
Brendan, do you mean the Check valve in flex fuel line? If so I have a new one without the check, have fuel pump re-built by Ken.
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No, the check valve that Skip sells for the radiator. a pressure valve
with the new Skip pumps they move more water, and with out the valve they will push out water out of the over flow tube. I have notest that my pickup is running cooler. before and after Skips pumps I run a piece of cardboard in front of the radiator in the winter. and now we have had some wormer days and I still need the cardboard. and I would bet that on a hot summer day with out the cardboard it will run cooler. If you don't have Skips check valve you sold think about getting one...Brendan
 
NEED HELP WITH PROBLEM!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Don P. and I worked on the 34 all day, he came up and I had everything ready to go. Had engine top end all back together, carburetor and fuel pump back and installed, rebuilt by Ken of CT., water pumps and coil installed, rebuilt by "Skip", distributor installed, redone by Don P. and myself. New Oil, new hoses and water, battery hooked up and checked for voltage on coil. Spark plugs cleaned and checked with air pressure. New spark plug wires. Now I have gas in carb, spark at Plugs and IT WILL NOT FIRE, NOTHING. I MEAN Not even backfire, I took the distributor off a running engine I have, changed distributor ( checked the condenser, good ) and changed out wire looms, STILL NOTHING! I changed the carburetor, STILL NOTHING! We checked the spark plug voltage while cranking 5KV, If you run on machine while at 1000 Rpm it is about 15KV. I have fuel, I have electrical power, I have air, I should have a FIRE!!!
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By pass everything by running a wire from the hot side of the battery directly to the coil. If it starts, then you have a bad resistor, which I think is under the dash on your car, or it could be too much resistance in your ignition switch. Don't run the car too long if you bypass everything as it isn't good for the coil to run without the reduction in voltage provided by the resistor.
 
We did all that,voltage direct to dist,straight 6 volts for a short time have spark at the plugs but not at the right time apparently.replaced dist and wore looms from a running engine,same thing,spark but not at the right time,,also checked the compression,about 90# ,4 & 8 wer about 60 # ., not one tome did it hit like it was ready to fire.,would the comp be this high if some of the teeth were stripped from timing gear.don't know if engine was stuck but Bruce did pull it some to to lube the valves...Stumped
 
I know this will draw fire but I would have poured gas down the carb. One other problem comes to mind that could be the trick and that is the engine may have a fiber timing gear that has partially stripped. There have been a lot of substd fiber gears on the market in recent years.
 
Been there done that(gas), and I am thinking that I/we have a gear problem, wondering how to locate Top of #1 and how to match that up with distributor to see if it is close????
 
Bruce in southern OH said:
Been there done that(gas), and I am thinking that I/we have a gear problem, wondering how to locate Top of #1 and how to match that up with distributor to see if it is close????
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Take off your distributor cap and remove the plug from #1 cylinder. Now place your thumb over the spark plug hole. Have a friend sit in the driver seat and bump the starter over until you feel air pushing out of the #1 cylinder and the rotor lines up with #1 plug wire on the cap. The pointer should also line up with the dimple on the crank pully. Then you are at #1 TDC. I am not sure what type of distributor you are running, helmet or crab?
 
He is running the 3 bolt coil type dist,think we will try to ck tdc and ck dist rotor to see if it points to no 1 plug wire
 
Don said:
He is running the 3 bolt coil type dist,think we will try to ck tdc and ck dist rotor to see if it points to no 1 plug wire
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I have no experience with those early type distributors but finding #1 TDC is done the same way. Perhaps you may be 180 degrees off on your timing. I've been there and it can be a pain in the butt. If you put it up on #1 TDC and check the position of the rotor it will be plainly obvious if you are off. My money is on your timing is off. Not to say your cam gear went bad but if it was running before you guys did the work, I'd say you haven't got your timing right.
 
Front mounted dist has a off set tang that will only go way ,I have broken more than one dist ears off by not having it lined up correctly. Will ck for tdc tomorrow and position on rotor,like you say ,should be obvious if not on no 1
 
Don said:
Front mounted dist has a off set tang that will only go way ,I have broken more than one dist ears off by not having it lined up correctly. Will ck for tdc tomorrow and position on rotor,like you say ,should be obvious if not on no 1
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Yes, same kind of tang as the 2 bolt crabs I have worked with. I have had guys tell me that it isn't impossible to get that on the wrong way. It's just a thought.
 
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