y block ticking

Check for a rock in tire tread or a bolt or screw in tread. little things are sometimes the bigggest headaches. Good luck.
 
manual says 3* for manual trans
what timing is suggested for 272 Holley 4 barrel tea pot standard trans
looking at wet carb and black tail pipes id say its running rich
but ill do the choke thing...
 
poured a lot of ****** fluid down carb
so much smoke neighbours almost called fire department
good news smoke came out between head and exhaust manifold 6 and 7
new gasket should fix that
 
paul my Y seems to like it around 12 degreese does that make sence to you
what would you put it at ???
 
I run mine 10 degrees (a stick and an auto) and they run good. You won't hurt anything at 12 but road test it to see if your happy with it. Both are warmed over 312's



cvicky said:
paul my Y seems to like it around 12 degreese does that make sence to you
what would you put it at ???
Click to expand...
 
exhaust manifold is warped a bit in the middle i'll try grinding the ends a bit
 

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next is my crankcase vent tube switch to pcv
wr do i get and what kind
i guess put hole in valve cover ...etc.
 
cvicky said:
exhaust manifold is warped a bit in the middle i'll try grinding the ends a bit
Click to expand...

It might not be my place to say so ,but the grinder is a not so good idea.

From the sounds of it you are expending a great deal of time and effort.

If that exhaust manifold is bad ,replace it. There are others to be found with very little effort.
By doing so ,you will correct the issue you are having. Attempting to solve your problem with a grinder will most likely result in a completely unusable part, and you will still have the same issue.

Same with the PVC valve .There are several threads here that will walk you thru how to go about this. it also tells what type of valley pan you need, or how to "adjust" the one you have.

I suggest you slow down and take the time to read them, it will save you a lot of time and aggravation down the road.
 
If you going to salvage the manifold have a shop surface it. And put a straight edge on the head. Ford shipped new cars without exhaust gaskets, just flat surfaces. You’ll find a lot of manifolds with the end ears cracked off from trying to over tighten them on the gaskets that come in gasket sets. There’s some high temp RTV products that’ll live on headers that might help.

Recent article on PCV on yblocksforever. Part numbers, etc. Valve cover or valley pan, don’t ignore the baffles.

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/Topic164478-1.aspx
 
Depending upon where you live, you might be better off taking that exhaust manifold to a local engine rebuild shop and have them mill the bad surface down flat. Then you won't need to find a used manifold that may have problems of it's own.
 
Lot of BS on using gaskets on the exhaust manifolds. Yes, Ford did not use them. However, things get changed around, the disparate parts do not always fit precisely. Especially things that go through hot and cold cycles all the time. I use gaskets on the exhaust manifolds on my Y's. Never broke a manifold. Have to be careful when tightening them down, in a sequence like doing a cylinder head or an intake manifold. Start from the middle and go out. Don't tighten them up full bore the first time. Do it in steps.


cvicky said:
exhaust manifold is warped a bit in the middle i'll try grinding the ends a bit
Click to expand...
 
Do you mean a picture under your name? That is an avatar.


At the top, click on User CP
Under settings, click on "Edit Avatar"
Click on circle under Custom Avatar


If you want to use a pic on your computer, click on "Browse"


Go to the picture on your computer you want to use and click on it. Then click on "OPEN" at bottom. The picture name will appear after "BROWSE"


Click on "save changes"


THis will do it (if you have Windows). May be different if you have Apple.



cvicky said:
how do i put a picture in my profile
Click to expand...
 
thx Paul
as you can see i finally got my picture up.
Ticking noise is gone
new gasket and orange high heat gasket maker and i torqued # 7 exhaust first wr it was a bitt worped
i'll watch for another manifold
 
If you look closely at the bolt holes to the head you'll see that all but one hole is larger than the bolt diameter. Pretty sure this is to allow the manifold to expand and contract as it heats & cools, helping to take stress off so it's less likely to crack. Another reason the bolts shouldn't be over tightened.
cvicky said:
...
i'll watch for another manifold
Click to expand...
Be aware there are several different styles and their diameter increased for '57.
http://www.y-block.info/casting/exhaust.html
.
 

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your back
i wondered wr you wr
your usually the first one to answer my problems
and yes i'm torquing small whole first # 7 exhaust is my problem
i think i know wr there is a 56 manifold
good to know 57 may be different
 
dmsfrr said:
If you look closely at the bolt holes to the head you'll see that all but one hole is larger than the bolt diameter. Pretty sure this is to allow the manifold to expand and contract as it heats & cools, helping to take stress off so it's less likely to crack. Another reason the bolts shouldn't be over tightened.

Be aware there are several different styles and their diameter increased for '57.
http://www.y-block.info/casting/exhaust.html
.
Click to expand...
I checked the link for the exh. manifolds. 1960's are listed as C2AZ both L&R. How could that be as C2 is 1962. Couldn't have part numbers 2 yrs ahead of production
 
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