Y-block hotrod headers

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Dana Barlow

Senior Member
Here is a photo of how my headers I just made for my Ford Y-292 came out,they are a old set off a SBChevy that I got from a buddy that still have nice chrome.
I cut chevy flage off and spread center pipes to match Ford ports and welded them to Ford flange.
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A better look with them on my rod :D:cool: I still got a lot of work to do,but it is coming along,I had built this rod for high school 1959 and rebuilding it after many years of parts just laying around as I raced many types of cars..:D
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Man, I love the look of those old sprint-style unequal length headers. I forgot about your thread here, when I was checking out your thread on the HAMB.
 
Had to design an build some new brake an clutch set up for my y-block,I wanted a duelmaster brake.
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After welding my pedal box design ,I painted it and added pads,also made a gas pedal from parts laying around.
 

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My tail lights I had got from my grandads barn. Here's the rebuilt with another set of 12volt sockets from the parts out of new trailer lite set from HF @ $9.99 ,parts put into my old 1900's lites. I'll need to redo my old paint to get these lites back up to highgloss,but had to get them working again first. In the late 1950's I had used some sockets from a junked car,but they are really junk now so put these new in. Plus used the trailer lenz so I could have bigger side to rear vs smaller red glass side of these cool old RAYO drivinglamps
 

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Love those headers. Anyone know where I can get headers that will work in a 55 Customline? Rebuilt 292 going in. I've heard about Red's, but opinions vary. Thanks for any help.
 
I'm thinking that the same trick of adding a Ford Y-block flange to SBC,but to SBC block hugers could work in a 55 Ford car or truck. See, when you cut off the SBC flange,you then get to put the Ford flange at what ever angle works for clearing stuff when you reweld them back together.
 
10 or 12 years ago I bought a set of Red's for a 55 Tbird. The workmanship and coatings were first rate. Ran them till last year, and they still looked great. If you go to y-blocksforever, and run a search,Ted Eaton has tested every ex manifold under the sun. If you can find someone who purchased currently from Red's, and the quality is still there, they'll be fine.

If you read all the "stuff" out there, there's some opinions that the "up swept", flat top factory manifolds work pretty well. Based on the exit angle of the exhaust from the head. I don't have any idea how that works, but if its right, cutting sbc block huggers to fit close might be going the wrong way.
 
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Just for a compair of tail lights,big side vs smaller side of red lenz. On todays roads and all the cars,I'm going for the bigger light this time.
 

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i have a 1957 ford 312 it was re built now it has oil dripping from the draft tube and the rear main when it geet hot.any sugestions
 
JWCF said:
i have a 1957 ford 312 it was re built now it has oil dripping from the draft tube and the rear main when it geet hot.any sugestions
Click to expand...

Just a guess,but what your saying sounds like too much oil in pan=like maybe dip stick was replaced so wrong reading, or just over filled will do that,barring simple,that happens from blow-by when rings don't seat or valves stem seal leak-by. Or even wrong cam timing by rebuilder
 
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Had to take the rod back apart.
Been too much time and rust on my old Modal A frame,seemed to hold Y-block OK back early 60's but not now,so I'm boxing it in with 1/8in. plate steel. The chain is saftey,cuz at 70 I'm not jumping out of the way real fast any more if she gets off sawhorses.
 

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Got 1928 A,frame boxed and painted,now bolting some parts back on.
This is my 1948 Ford axle. Slowly moving along,will add 292 V8 Ford back in a week or two.:cool:
 

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looking better,put my Y-block back in for the last time I hope.:D Brakes work,clutch works,now needs some fuel line ect.
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I'm looking for a old or froze up,4bbl 4100 carb,I can unfreez anything and rebuild my self,don't need chock parts. thanks for any leads.
 
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