Y block fuel pump

Charlie has result several Carbs for my flatheads. He a good friend that can't be beat. He just got a 32 Pickup that he working on when he gets time.
 
Now and Then Automotive has the rebuild kits for the older A/C fuel pumps. you can buy the kit or have them rebuild your pump. I have a 56 Thunderbird that the pump went bad on. It took 3 Airtex pumps to get it working. No more new junk fuel pumps for me.
 
I got a Carter from Hill's and no good sent it back and they sent all them back where they got them. Now then have the original rebuilt. So keep your old one for rebuilt.
 
Sid said:
The guy was driving about 35 and car quit. I went to where he was and checked for spark all was good. Pulled fuel line off carb. and cranked engine for about 15 sec. and no fuel. Hooked hose to the fuel line going to tank and gave a little suck and got fuel. Bench tested pump and felt pressure on carb. side but feed side would not suck fuel from a can. Found another pump in my stash and car is running now. BTW that is an expensive pump buying new. Especially the Carter M73066. Airtek is about $100.00 Carter $180.00
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On my ford I had an electric pump in the fuel line to prime when she sat for a while and when the fuel pump died ,I don’t like breaking down !
 
Sid said:
Okay...I put a used pump on the car for the people and it ran great. I get a call about 8 days later that the car wont start. In the meantime I got a new Carter pump. So I go to the peoples house and crank the car for 10 -15 seconds and nothing.
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Usually, when replacing a fuel pump, I notice that the fuel in the line from the gas tank gets sucked back into the tank so that the fuel line going to the new fuel pump has been cavitated. So, Before attempting to make final connection of fuel line to the pump, I fill the line with gas via the flexible fuel fitting till it overflows, then QUICKLY connect it so it doesn't have a chance to suck back into the tank.
After the pump is installed and all fuel lines are connected, I also fill the fuel line from carb to pump before hooking fuel line to carb. I do this using a clean tuna can with a spout bent in it. That stupid tuna can is one of the most used tools I have (since I also use it to prime the EBU carb after the gas has drained out of it after a few days).
BTW, rebuild kits for Y-block fuel pumps have never been available from the repro parts suppliers. But they are now offering kits for flathead fuel pumps.
AND, if you ask for an FE engine fuel pump, you will get the same part they sell you for a Y-block, but you might only get the single action pump, which is no good if you have vacuum windshield wipers.
 
Every new fuel pump I've installed in recent years has put out too much pressure causing me to install fuel pressure regulators. I agree with using FE pumps but even with those you don't know what kind of quality you're getting
 
The new pump[s from china allegedly supply 3-1/2 to 5-1/2 lbs of pressure.
The maximum inlet pressure for a Ford EBU, Holley 2100 or Holley 2110 (all pre 1957) is 3-1/2 lbs. So if the pump exceeds that, you are flooding out your engine.
I've had a lot of experience with trying to usde THREE different brands of pressure regulators (the last one being an expensive Holley). None lasted longer than a month (under normal everyday driving conditions).
I was finally able to get the fuel system to work using a bypass line back to the gas tank with an orifice tube ahead of the carb (withoput the need for a regulator).
Incidentally, the 223 I-block 6-cyl is the same pump except with a different actuating lever. If you want to see a Holley 1904 carb blow sky high, just try to feed one with one of these pumps. PITIFUL!
 
I will try and post pictures of the FE pump I use
 

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Arthur Gould Rebuilder's rebuilds fuel pumps (and water pumps). Located in Mass. Has done a couple for me and the one in use is working very good. He only does USA/Canada/Mexico pumps as far as I know. You will have to ask him about the china pumps.
 
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