y-block blow by..

[KULTULZ]

As I recall my valley pan only had the front baffle in it. I remember that cuz I had a difficult time getting it into the block.I don't recall there being any type of baffle on the rear of it. Could this be causing an issue?

The rear baffle was used on both versions. It is a splash shield. The adapter (6A665) is a vapor/fume separator.

This is especially important when using the MOROSO PCV valve grommet. Usually this baffle has to have the adapter retaining nut drilled out to allow the valve to fully seat. This exposes the valve to splash.

 

[Hot Rod Reverend]

The pan was the same for either road draft or PCV.

This should do it... thank you

what threw me was an earlier post you had that mentioned a "PCV pan" that Ford came out with in 1960.

Clear as mud

 

[KULTULZ]

This should do it... thank you

what threw me was an earlier post you had that mentioned a "PCV pan" that Ford came out with in 1960.

Clear as mud

What I should have said is that FORD (along with others) introduced PCV in 1960 due to emission regulations.The C0AE pan was introduced for the 1960/ FORD PASS CAR with the modified filler tube for both road draft and PCV usage.

Limited education here -

 

[KULTULZ]

these pans are all the same except for filler spout including the 55tbird

While basically all are somewhat similar, there are differences needed for certain applications -

-1954/1957 Style w Block Side Draft-

 

[KULTULZ]

Another difference in Y-block valley pans with a road draft fitting at the back...

There are different outside lengths of the straight oil filler tubes. Most T-Bird valley pan tubes are approx 6 to 6.5 inches long from the top surface of the valley cover, on other vehicles they are approx 8 inches long.

Presumably because there's more room under the hood.

Below is a filler tube height chart for the pre-1960 design(s).

 

[reddog565]

Hey guys the final verdict is in on the blow by! Turns out I had a bad PCV valve! I installed a #2260 (very rare from early Corvettes).no more blowing smoke and it has good suction in the oil filler tube now! And I rerouted my vacuum lines. There's now a separate line for each use. I ended up making a 4-port vacuum valve. Simply made it out of copper. Very easy to solder! Now for one more issue? This is been doing this ever since I got the car it blows water out of the dual exhaust pipes. Upon startup. So what's the thoughts on this issue?
Thanks to all who participated!!

 

[40 Deluxe]

Water (condensation) out the exhaust is common on cars used for short trips. Water is a byproduct of combustion. Gasoline is a hydrocarbon, the 'hydro' being hydrogen. Anyway, the water vapor in the exhaust gases condenses to liquid when it reaches the cold pipes and muffler. Idling and putt-putting around town never lets the exhaust system get warm enough to evaporate out this water so it dribbles out the tailpipes. Exhaust gases are corrosive so when mixed with water can rust out pipes and mufflers in a hurry! That's why the old-time corner gas stations all had racks and racks of tailpipes and stacks of mufflers.

 

[reddog565]

Great answer! Any solutions for this issue?
the way I see it all that water laying in the exhaust is definitely going to eat away mufflers and tailpipes for sure...

 

[40 Deluxe]

Great answer! Any solutions for this issue?
the way I see it all that water laying in the exhaust is definitely going to eat away mufflers and tailpipes for sure...

Check for drain holes in the muffler end caps. Some have them, some don't. I'm thinking here of the oval OEM style with crimped seams. You can drill a drain hole if needed; about 1/8" or so. Or, if you need an excuse for a run down the Interstate, say you have to go dry out the mufflers! I imagine putting heat lamps under the mufflers and any low points in the pipes for a few days would dry them out, but I've never tried this.

 

[miker98038]

I’m glad the problem is solved. If you’ve got any miles to speak of on the motor, I’d either make a long run or change the oil. If it looks good on the dipstick a good run is probably enough. If it looks other than new I’d run it to warm it up and change it and the filter. No sense circulating contaminated oil.

I’ve drilled holes in the bottom back of mufflers, mainly after blowing a head gasket and filling them with water (that’s a change the oil right now and prime, bearing materials don’t like anti freeze).

The long term solution is stainless steel mufflers and pipes behind them. Not polished street rod stuff, most products are available in utility grade stainless alloys.

 

[reddog565]

Thanks everyone!

 

[flatheadron]

A quick check to make is to remove the breather cap and rig a vacuum gauge in the opening. Should be some vacuum there. Do not remember how much but some. Used to be a small plastic gauge in the old days you held over the pipe and it registered a vacuum or pressure. System works by drawing in clean air through the breather, circulating it around the engine and out the PCV valve which meters the flow. Sounds like it is blocked somewhere. Y-blocks had two styles of road draft tubes. One on the front left of the block with a filter/oil separator, the other at the back of the valley pan. Both were baffled to prevent oil from being sucked out. Which style was yours originally? I don't like the location your valve is installed in. Hard to tell what the tapped hole was originally used for. But I see another picture showing it in the valley pan. Which is correct now? Rather see it in the valley pan, but has to be baffled.

 

[reddog565]

Another great reply! My draft tube is
Located front side. ( Blocked off) .
The pcv is located in the block.
I put a 4" pipe to raise it up, so it
Doesn't get oil contamination.

 

[KULTULZ]

Another great reply! My draft tube is
Located front side. ( Blocked off) .
The pcv is located in the block.
I put a 4" pipe to raise it up, so it
Doesn't get oil contamination.

Just keep an eye on it. Where and how the valve is situated can only lead to vapor ingestion.

OEM used both a splash shield and separator.

 

[KULTULZ]

A quick check to make is to remove the breather cap and rig a vacuum gauge in the opening. Should be some vacuum there. Do not remember how much but some. Used to be a small plastic gauge in the old days you held over the pipe and it registered a vacuum or pressure.

I still have mine ...

Autolite ... But it won't ...

 

[flatheadron]

I still do not understand what the PCV valve is screwed into. I know it's a threaded hole in the block but is that hole open to the valley area or an oil galley? Was there vacuum or pressure at the breather cap pipe?

 

[KULTULZ]

I still do not understand what the PCV valve is screwed into. I know it's a threaded hole in the block but is that hole open to the valley area or an oil galley? Was there vacuum or pressure at the breather cap pipe?

Where the OP has the valve installed (on the block directly behind the valley pan opening) is incorrect. There is neither a splash shield under the valve or any type of separator above the valve. The valve install will continue to draw excessive fumes/vapors into the intake tract and foul earlier than preventative maintenance will catch.

 

[flatheadron]

I could be wrong but from what I know it looks like the valves in these pictures are installed wrong. Normally, with these screw in valves, the threaded end screws into the intake or carb base with the threads at the vacuum source and the hose running to the valley pan, valve cover, or area where the older road draft tube went. Try reversing the valve and see what that does.

 

[scicala]

From my experience, the hose with vacuum from the carb base or intake manifold goes to the nipple end of the PCV valve. The other end goes to the crankcase/lifter valley. Looks installed correctly to me.


Sal