Wow is me !!!

I have the modern points set up with the condenser with the points.The car is an Argentinian import with some non standard looking wiring .

I suggest that is the crux of your problem right there. Put the distributor plates back to original and rewire your primary ignition circuit so it is also original. (One thing at a time, of course.)
 
If you have spark at the points and you have a good spark from the coil wire to a head stud when trying to start when hot, I would look elsewhere. I certainly think that checking the valve settings makes good sense. Incorrect valve settings can impede the gas flow to the cylinders. It's has to be either an air, fuel, or spark problem. Let us know what you find.
 
it must be something that changes when fully warmed . One is valve lash, time consuming to check. Do you have voltage to the plugs? , not just coil and points. Does the engine crank more slowly when warmed. Cylinders/ pistons could be tight reducing the cranking speed and reducing voltage to fire off. What size battery cables are you using? recommend real ought or 00. Many vendors are selling #2 as #1. On a standard compression engine that should be ok, but when a new engine gets hot #2 may be inadequate.
 
I don't know the guy but I don't think that a professional engine builder would set the valve lash wrong. I'm betting that it has something to do with the modern points and condenser setup or a weak coil.
 
Purdy Swoft said:
I don't know the guy but I don't think that a professional engine builder would set the valve lash wrong. I'm betting that it has something to do with the modern points and condenser setup or a weak coil.
Click to expand...
Yes the guy has a good name here on The Barn but just to be sure I checked the valve lash today and everything was spot on. It seems that by general consensus the modern points and condenser could be the culprit so that has to be the next route to explore.
 
If it is a modern coil - make sure it is wired correctly & as close to dizzy as possible - nice short coil lead is better than a big long un.
 
Have you checked the coil with an ohm meter? when coils start to go bad, they will get hot, when they get hot the ohm readings go up. So when the coil is at normal temperature it is fine, when it is hot it will still produce spark, but the spark is not hot enough for the engine to run.
 
Same exact symptoms... mine was self inflicted...

I had replaced the 30 amp glass fuse in the fuse holder on the starter with a circuit breaker.

Engine heat was causing the breaker to separate. Open the hood, let it get some breeze for 5-10 minutes, she'd fire back up. Run a while, then quit.

Took out the circuit breaker, put back the glass fuse - runs fine...

Was quite frustrating to track down...

Your results may vary...
 
Very interesting..... the poor quality condensers not working properly even out of the box led me to replacing it. However before doing so I consulted an electrical guru who specializes in vintage cars. He agreed about poor quality condensers but added that a faulty condenser can cause problems for the coil and a faulty coil cause problems for the condenser so these two should always be treated as one component and replaced together to avoid storing up problems for the future. This I did and guess what...... hot starting problem has disappeared !! He also added that Bosch 6 volt coils are of a lot better quality and that a tuning firm in the Uk ( Swift Tune )fed up with poor condensers has commissioned his own which are of high quality but live outside the distributor and are more expensive. Food for thought.
Many thanks for all the help and advice
John.
 
glad you are all sorted - quick get it out there before summer comes n goes!!............Ooops too late :)
 
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