woodgrain redo

allen

allen

Well-known member
My car had the dash and garish done, I do not like the work is there a way to remove and start over again thanks , and any article's on this
 
I'm in the same boat, sort of. My dad painted the dash (it may have already been painted when he got the car; I'm not sure).

I found the following we site that shows some of the tools, supplies and techniques for woodgraining:

http://woodgraining.com/

Steve
 
OK, here is what I think you are will be faced with. Most of the techniques are using an ink that really is not compatible with paint per se'. When the clear is applied over the ink, all it is doing is encapsulating it. Even when we have tried to bake it, it never really dries like it would on paper or cloth because it cannot absorb into the paint or metal.

I am of the opinion you should strip it all to bare metal and start over again. Mil thickness is not your friend when it comes to the screw holes in the dash panel & window trim as it wants to chip or hold the screw out too far, --especially if one uses reproduction screws which really aren't the correct size anyway. Just my opinion on all of this tho.............
 
OK guys and gals heres the deal. I have just finished a wood graining article for Model "A" Times. John LaVoy has everything for the summer edtion about ready for the printers. Lot's of colored photos. My technique works although I will never claim to have invented it. I developed out of my own frustration beacuase anyone in the know would never reveal ALL the secrets. Brent is correct because you are using material that is incompatible and forcing it to work. My technique uses totally compatible materials. I do not do this for hire as I'm sick to death of retail trade. my thrill is teaching those with initiative to master a very simple approach. Grain-it-technologies is now offering a "KIT" which is just fine and very near my method with difference being in cost. :D
 
Mike V. Florida said:
Look here;

Woodgraining
Click to expand...

Mike, Thanks a million for this info, Especially the "woodgraining' methods. I've been trying to get this for some time! However, in looking over the paint codes, I notice under misc. accent colors , a listing for walnut BC. I have no idea what the BC stands for. It's listed for wood grain windows and luggage racks. (And Dash Boards?????) Is this an approximation of the original window frame/garnish mouldings and perhaps the Dashboard, The numbers are , DuPont YS176 also Mahogany B/C DuPont RS650? I assume the woodgraining paint is available from DuPont? Thanks Again!
Terry
 
There is a woodgraining seminar at the MARC convention in French Lick, IN next week.
Friday, June 18th, 10:00 AM - Noon Seminar(Woodgraining) Grain-It-Technologies.
 
I attended the woodgraining seminar at the Membership Meet in Terre Haute. There were no demonstrations, but the speaker (Joe Goss from Ester Woodgraining) explained the "roller" method and had several pieces on display (which were beautifully done). The problem with that method is that after each application, which is one revolution (circumference) of the roller, you have to pick up a fresh supply of ink and match the end of the previous revolution with the next. Professionals use very large rollers, amateurs get smaller rollers in the kits. My wife did our Deluxe Coupe using the method described in How To Restore Your Model A, Volume 2, by Bill Reeder and after 22 years it still looks GREAT. It took a little time to get the knack (using a russet base coat, then a stiff brush and cutoff toothpicks), but seems to me to be easier than trying to get a roller into the garnish corners and matching the previous grain with the next, and only costs a few dollars for supplies. Just a thought.
 
The Pros do not use great big rollers much at all.
Most all graining is done with the smaller rollers.
It is super easy to get into corners with rollers.
:D

Jdee
388.jpg
 
Jdee said:
The Pros do not use great big rollers much at all.
Most all graining is done with the smaller rollers.
It is super easy to get into corners with rollers.

Jdee
Click to expand...

Grain-it is here! I'm surprised you did not tell him to look at the videos on the site, you still have videos right?
 
I know that this will probably get some boos and hisses, but is there a "stick on" product that looks good and would go around the contours of a dash?

I'm thinking a high-tech, high-quality version of the contact paper your mom and dad probably used to make things look like wood back in the 1970's.

Steve
 
Jdee said:
Hi yes there are videos. I will be doing new videos next month.
More on how I do the painting in our shop the supplies I use and where to get them. More on graining also.
I sure wish this humid weather would go away, guess that's what I get for living in a swamp:D
Jdee
PS:
The videos are here.
http://www.woodgraining.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=11
Click to expand...

Jdee, A bit of an insane Q. for a car forum, but I notice you use 'Viva' paper towels because of their soft surface. I've used them for years as my favorite shop towel for that fine, flannel like surface, BUT to my great disappointment, the surface changed to a stiffer coarser texture a few months ago, a bit too rough for fine wiping of a stain or tint overcoat. I wonder if this is a local production plant thing in my area only, or if it is everywhere. Have you noticed a change? I know the wife would like to cut up my flannel lumberjack shirts into 4" wiper squares, but I don't see that happening.
 
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Yes we seem to get some viva that's just not as soft and leaves behind fine lint. Seems to change from batch to batch.
Jdee
 
I would think the Vinyl wrap guys could make a stick on decal for you, using something like a 3M Control tack material. Maybe clear it with frog juice
to get it to hold up.
Jdee
 
Jdee,

Is the reason for covering the end of the prior roll and wiping off the pattern to prevent rolling over the prior work?

Would it be useful, instead of using a straight piece to cover that you had something with a more random edge to reduce the possibility of a visible separation line from one pass to the next?

Jdee said:
Maybe clear it with frog juice to get it to hold up.
Click to expand...

Frog juice?

Steve
 
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