WOODGRAIN (real)

whizzernick

whizzernick

Well-known member
A little history. I have been doing (hand) woodgrain since 1966. most of my interest has been 1933-34 ford (as I started out in 1959 with a 33 roadster)

I always wanted to get as close as possible to original woodgrain . I have a large collection of original woodgrain samples. (the inside of 33 -34 glovebox doors ) (no fade from sunlight ) The original method ( done by ford ) & most others. Was a printing method . Plate of woodgrain pattern was inked up and a very soft roller transfered the image from plate to item to wood grain. To get the corect pattern (33 or34 ) you need the correct printing plate. Most original method people DO NOT thave the correct printing plates. I found one guy with the correct printing plates. Benny Esties ( in Florida ) I flew to Florida in 1970 and brought my 1933 vickey dash window frames my 33 dashboard and a lot of extra parts (glove box doors ash tray etc. ) I was thinking about a dealership (from him ) Price at that time was $50,000 .
I thought at the time (no $50,000 and would I ever do that much woodgrain )
All my woodgrain was finished by him and now my roadster and vickey have as correct as possible woodgrain.
My pictures are of both original and original method. I do have a large colections of almost all years and if you need a picture of original If I have it I will email to you .



I TRIED TO POST AND THIS IS WHAT I GOT

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Here is Nick's orig '33.
430324
 
whizzernick said:
A little history. I have been doing (hand) woodgrain since 1966. most of my interest has been 1933-34 ford (as I started out in 1959 with a 33 roadster)

I always wanted to get as close as possible to original woodgrain . I have a large collection of original woodgrain samples. (the inside of 33 -34 glovebox doors ) (no fade from sunlight ) The original method ( done by ford ) & most others. Was a printing method . Plate of woodgrain pattern was inked up and a very soft roller transfered the image from plate to item to wood grain. To get the corect pattern (33 or34 ) you need the correct printing plate. Most original method people DO NOT thave the correct printing plates. I found one guy with the correct printing plates. Benny Esties ( in Florida ) I flew to Florida in 1970 and brought my 1933 vickey dash window frames my 33 dashboard and a lot of extra parts (glove box doors ash tray etc. ) I was thinking about a dealership (from him ) Price at that time was $50,000 .
I thought at the time (no $50,000 and would I ever do that much woodgrain )
All my woodgrain was finished by him and now my roadster and vickey have as correct as possible woodgrain.
My pictures are of both original and original method. I do have a large colections of almost all years and if you need a picture of original If I have it I will email to you .



I TRIED TO POST AND THIS IS WHAT I GOT

Your submission could not be processed because a security token was missing.

If this occurred unexpectedly, please inform the administrator and describe the action you performed before you received this error.
Click to expand...


I get the same message when trying to post photos I take with my cell phone. Funny how photos from the phone with the exact same settings post just fine on the HAMB. I was told that the photos were too large but reducing their size didn't help. I even emailed them to another member who resized them but still no luck. My solution is to use my digital camera and no more error message. I'm no computer person but my best guess is that there is some internal setting in the camera in my cell phone that is turned on or off which produces the error message. If you have a digital camera try using it to post here on the Barn.
 
51504bat said:
I get the same message when trying to post photos I take with my cell phone. Funny how photos from the phone with the exact same settings post just fine on the HAMB. I was told that the photos were too large but reducing their size didn't help. I even emailed them to another member who resized them but still no luck. My solution is to use my digital camera and no more error message. I'm no computer person but my best guess is that there is some internal setting in the camera in my cell phone that is turned on or off which produces the error message. If you have a digital camera try using it to post here on the Barn.
Click to expand...
Hello -

re woodgraining -

I have a '33 coupe.

The windshield glass = olde, unpro-installed plate glass, cracked. We had to remove the windshield frame with cracked glass in order to have the glass professionally replaced.

I contacted Sanders; at my request, they 'cut' a "6Ford33" 3w coupe windshield glass & sent it (excellent service they provide!)

Currently, the (Sanders 6Ford33) windshield glass has professionally been installed in the frame. Now, the frame w/glass will be installed on/in the car.

NOW would be the time to professionally '33-'34 woodgrain the dash. (if anyway possible) Is any '33-'34 woodgrainer still available?

(upon removal of the windshield frame w/ cracked non-FoMoCo plate glass, we observed that there are six slot-flat-headed=special-head/fine-thread machine screws that secure the dash top to the cowl flange; three per driver side, three per passenger side.

Five reluctantly unscrewed, but submitted; one refused - the slotted-head cracked in half as a result of hand-held screwdriver pressure. (imagine the hand-squeeze on that screwdriver handle by my strong-armed son!) Apparently brittle steel!

This one screw will have to be drilled out (1/8th inch diameter.)possibly re-tap only if absolutely necessary. The two to be screwed back in on that side should be sufficient.
(your/anyone's opinion on that is welcomed.) Thank you -

highbeams Pat Malone
 
///Hello -

re woodgraining -

I have a '33 coupe.

The windshield glass = olde, unpro-installed plate glass, cracked. We had to remove the windshield frame with cracked glass in order to have the glass professionally replaced.

I contacted Sanders; at my request, they 'cut' a "6FoMoCo33" 3w coupe windshield glass & sent it (excellent service they provide!)

Currently, the (Sanders 6FoMoCo33) windshield glass has professionally been installed in the frame. Now, the frame w/glass will be installed on/in the car.

NOW would be the time to professionally '33-'34 woodgrain the dash. (if anyway possible) Is any '33-'34 woodgrainer still available?

(upon removal of the windshield frame w/ cracked non-FoMoCo plate glass, we observed that there are six slot-round-headed=special-head/fine-thread machine screws that secure the dash top to the cowl flange; three per driver side, three per passenger side.

Five reluctantly unscrewed, but submitted; one refused - the slotted-head cracked in half as a result of hand-held screwdriver pressure. (imagine the hand-squeeze on that screwdriver handle by my strong-armed son! with a tap tap with screwdriver in the slot) Apparently brittle steel!

This one screw will have to be drilled out (1/8th inch diameter.)possibly re-tap only if absolutely necessary. The two to be screwed back in on that side should be sufficient.
(your/anyone's opinion on that is welcomed.) Thank you -

highbeams Pat Malone
 
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picture.php
[/IMG]

This is a NOS garnish molding out of a dealership in Seattle. If someone wanted better pictures of it, PM me your email address. Interestingly it has a 1-33 date on the back.
Real for sure.
 
highbeams said:
///Hello -

re woodgraining -

I have a '33 coupe.

The windshield glass = olde, unpro-installed plate glass, cracked. We had to remove the windshield frame with cracked glass in order to have the glass professionally replaced.

I contacted Sanders; at my request, they 'cut' a "6FoMoCo33" 3w coupe windshield glass & sent it (excellent service they provide!)

Currently, the (Sanders 6FoMoCo33) windshield glass has professionally been installed in the frame. Now, the frame w/glass will be installed on/in the car.

NOW would be the time to professionally '33-'34 woodgrain the dash. (if anyway possible) Is any '33-'34 woodgrainer still available?

(upon removal of the windshield frame w/ cracked non-FoMoCo plate glass, we observed that there are six slot-round-headed=special-head/fine-thread machine screws that secure the dash top to the cowl flange; three per driver side, three per passenger side.

Five reluctantly unscrewed, but submitted; one refused - the slotted-head cracked in half as a result of hand-held screwdriver pressure. (imagine the hand-squeeze on that screwdriver handle by my strong-armed son! with a tap tap with screwdriver in the slot) Apparently brittle steel!

This one screw will have to be drilled out (1/8th inch diameter.)possibly re-tap only if absolutely necessary. The two to be screwed back in on that side should be sufficient.
(your/anyone's opinion on that is welcomed.) Thank you -

highbeams Pat Malone
Click to expand...


I think it takes a screw similar to these glove box mounting screws(10-32)-flat oval slotted.If it does I have an extra for free.
 

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  • 33-34 glove box screws & plate.jpg
    33-34 glove box screws & plate.jpg
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Impeccable! Thank you for that.

Surely in this day and age, SOMEONE can reproduce that "woodgrain".?
 
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deuce lover said:
I think it takes a screw similar to these glove box mounting screws(10-32)-flat oval slotted.If it does I have an extra for free.
Click to expand...
Thank you, Deuce Lover. I thought that I had thanked you - I'm sure I would have with an offer like that! But won't the drilling-out 'take out' the original threads? The threads are not with a nut, but are in a stamped-in piece. This stamp-in piece cannot be replaced, because I can't stamp it in! Thank you!
 
Its a bit tricky to get the screw out if the slot is buggered up.If somehow you can get a good grip the head might snap off,but then you can get the dash out since the other screws came out okay.If thats the case -if dash can be removed you will have easier access to get the rest of the screw out.
 
deuce lover said:
Its a bit tricky to get the screw out if the slot is buggered up.If somehow you can get a good grip the head might snap off,but then you can get the dash out since the other screws came out okay.If thats the case -if dash can be removed you will have easier access to get the rest of the screw out.
Click to expand...
Thank you, Deuce Lover -

Cannot get a good grip on the head. My son will be visiting in July + again, I'll let it rest 'til he's here. I'll update w/a post. 87 yrs rusted tight is a lonnng time.

As said, the old cracked-plate unprofessional windshield glass has been removed; professionally replaced w/a Sanders glass windshield; the frame w/ the now Sanders glass is installation ready.

I wanted to have professional woodgrain'g done after we git that stubborn fine-threaded stud out, but it appears that real woodgrainers are scarce anymore.

At any rate, the dash will have to come out for a thorough surface cleaning removal of the hard-honey-type coating, which is over an unprofessional woodgrain'g from who knows when and by who.

(I have the passenger-side dash hard-honey-type coating carefully removed and cleaned up, as is the passenger door-glass moulding. (removed verrrry carefully w/ a sponge & Bon Ami('hasn't scratched yet'.) extremely time consuming; i.e., a day for the passenger-glass moulding. I'm perplexed w/this coating, and it's gotta go.

Thanks much for your suggestion(s)

*Aggressive removal= bare steel wanting to peek through.)
 
ssffnomad said:
Possibly take a Dremal , and very carefully get rid to the rest of the head.
Click to expand...
Thanks much, ssffnomad -

Your Dremal suggestion = a very good possibility. As I replied to Deuce Lover, (please read) hopefully my son will get at it again in his July+ visit. (Henry's fine-threads did keep everything tight-together; a particular thread depending upon what it was making two as one - I've read.
 
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The six screws in question as original were 12-24 x 9/16" Slotted Binding head screws in S-2 Finish.
 
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