Wood treatment

Bill Goddard

Bill Goddard

Well-known member
I am doing a total restoration of the 60A in my avatar and am nearly ready to put a finish on all my new wood. I understand the original finish was a "Gilsonite" solution similar to driveway sealer today. I am sure if I used driveway sealer it would stink of asphalt for years especially on a hot day. I am thinking about coloring the wood with a black alchohol stain for authenticity and finish coating with several thin coates of polyurathane. I might use clear Thomsons water seal. Does anyone have any suggestions for something better or am I on the right track.

Bill G
 
I using min-wax stain sealer Walnut because that's what I had then spray can flat black Top coat. I think all the wood covers.
 
I used Minwax ebony stain, but it made my body blocks a bit too beautiful-looking.
Somebody once suggested a 50-50 mix of the Minwax stain and flat black Rustoleum oil-based paint. If I ever need to prepare a new set of body blocks, I would try that.

On my S/W sedan, most of the roof wood and body tack strips seemed to have no treatment at all. The rear setback frame had a rather thin coat of flat black stain, which did not penetrate through the glue that oozed past the glued joints. Other seat wood appeared to have nothing.

Doug
 
Tung Oil, bug proof, good uv resistance, easy to apply, insect resistant, wont check or crack, unlike poly it is very water durable and wont water soften upon prolonged contact. If you dont like that try spar urethane, good water characteristics but not as uv tolerant as the tung. If you want black use a black wipe on stain, allow it to set and follow with a thin coat of tung, it will set in about 3 to 5 minutes depending on air, wipe off and allow to cure. You can also find a dark rosewood stain, it gives the wood a nice aged look to it. Formsbys and General finishes both make tung oil. One other nice thing about tung is that it has no water content so it will not raise the grain, if you use poly you will have to coat, cure, buff and coat.
 
I replaced all the wood on my 60B (Red Oak) none shows after everything is completed. Why all the fuss about stains? I used flat black oil on everything.
 

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The minwax ebony is very dark, but does highlight some of the grain. You can get Danish Oil in a very dark formula, it is almost black, and you can just rub it in with a rag and don't wipe off the excess.
 
it been about 20 years but i used boiled linseed oil with black rustoleum mixed in & thinned so it soaked in real good. still looks good.
 
This question came up on the old Fordbarn and I took the suggestion to try Woodlife Creocoat black wood preservative. The preservative was applied to my new ash chassis wood and it looks great. In fact, it looks very much like the black finish on my surviving original wood. I bought a gallon which is more than enough for all my wood.
CreoCoatgal.jpg
 
I know the Model A is fairly simple. But what is an AVATAR. I guess i missed one of Bill Orielly programs. Tony
 
Stinch, Looks like you've got something there. I can get it at my local Home Despot. One question. Does it smell much after drying. I am afraid of strong ashphalt oder. Bill G
 
I purchased my gallon at a local hardware store for about $18. Check out the store locator to find a potential supplier near you.

The stain did not smell much at all. I did the staining in the basement of my house and no one at home noticed anything. It is a water based product so that must help keep the smell down.

Rich
 
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