Wood kit needed

B

Ben Hoskins

Member
I am restoring a 1928 Sport Coupe. Where is the best place to purchase a wood kit? I have tried to order from Howells and also Ford Wood.
Neither company will answer their phone.
Thanks, Ben 818-612-9489
 
Ben, look at that as a blessing!!

Classic Wood in Greensboro is the best kit manufacturer in my opinion. Brattons or Snyders both carry their kits (and may already have it in stock) or you can order it from the manufacturer too. Classic Wood does not have a website but their contact info is;
1006 North Raleigh Street
Greensboro, NC 27405
(336) 691-1344
 
got mine from Snyders, last year for my '31 coupe, i didn't have to drill out any of the pre-drilled holes. everything fit nicely JAN. :)
 
I am doing my first mod. A, so I'm not greatly experienced. Mine is a 4drTown Sedan. A complicated design at best. I tell people that Henry put the whole lumber yard in there. I'm making some of the wood myself. I bought my kit from Bratton's which is a Classic wood agent. Now this is a 4 dr sedan, not a coupe! I bought the "Top wood " Kit and the "bottom wood kit" I'm making the "Body wood" and "Door wood". However, I don't know if it's a oversight or according to plan, but I did NOT get the seat wood which is a direct connection to the bottom wood (Sills) It's only a square box that the seat rests on so I just went ahead and made it myself (Everything should be that easy) I also did Not receive the top piece that go across the back of the car where the rest of the top wood is. Again don't know if this is an oversight or if they're calling the top, rear piece , Body wood. The original piece is one of the few good pieces on the car, so I will leave it alone.
No diagrams, explanations, directions, nothing! This makes the job a lot harder for someone like me who knows from nothing. Take a few photos of it before you disassemble it. Do NOT use the Rippschitt and Bust method of disassembly. Take it apart carefully. This is your only guide to putting it back together. Further more, I don't know how to finish it correctly. I'm putting two coats of urethane on the wood and I will put a coat of black over that to finish it. Why urethane? No one told me not to! I would have preferred Spar Varnish but that's a little pricey for me right now. There maybe better things than urethane, but no one's come forward yet!
Terry
 
Ford Wood is very slow and they wont give you an accurate time of delivery. They never answer their phone, their voice mail box is occasionally full so you cant leave a message, and you may wait for weeks for a response.
 
Terry said:
Take a few photos of it before you disassemble it. Do NOT use the Rippschitt and Bust method of disassembly.
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Hey guys, Thanks for all the advice. I placed the wood order from Classic Wood this morning.
My car is a December 1927 early A R Sport Coupe. Steve suggested I send him the old wood because some changes were made on the early models. He plans to match the old parts and make any needed adjustments.
It is good to be able to do business with people who care and take pride in their product and workmanship.

ALSO, WHO ARE THOSE TWO GUYS YOU MENTIONED--RIPPSCHITT AND BUST. DO THEY RESTORE MODEL A FORDS?

Thanks again, Ben
 
david801 said:
Ford Wood is very slow and they wont give you an accurate time of delivery. They never answer their phone, their voice mail box is occasionally full so you cant leave a message, and you may wait for weeks for a response.
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I had the same problems with Ford Wood, they won't be getting any of my business.
 
I purchased my wood kit from Bratton's for my 29 coupe project . Its not plug and play some pieces fit good . I had a few issues with the roof the header needed a lot of work and the back piece above the rear window needs some work that's where I'm at now. But in general I think its a excellent kit if you like working with wood . I purchased this kit over a year ago not sure who made it .
 
Ben Hoskins said:
Hey guys, Thanks for all the advice. I placed the wood order from Classic Wood this morning.
My car is a December 1927 early A R Sport Coupe. Steve suggested I send him the old wood because some changes were made on the early models. He plans to match the old parts and make any needed adjustments.
It is good to be able to do business with people who care and take pride in their product and workmanship.

ALSO, WHO ARE THOSE TWO GUYS YOU MENTIONED--RIPPSCHITT AND BUST. DO THEY RESTORE MODEL A FORDS?

Thanks again, Ben
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Hey Ben, ironically we are restoring a January 5, 1928 Sport Coupe for a customer out of Florida who wants to enter it in fine-point some.

And yes, I think "those two guys" have been involved in quite a few 'messtorations' in the Model A hobby! I'm glad you are not going to use their methods!!

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[FONT=&quot]Is "Rippschitt and Bust method of disassembly" an acronym for just tearing out the wood willie nilly? I have never heard of it before. Can someone explain what it is? I am curious.
Rusty Nelson[/FONT]
 
wrndln said:
[FONT=&quot]Is "Rippschitt and Bust method of disassembly" an acronym for just tearing out the wood willie nilly? I have never heard of it before. Can someone explain what it is? I am curious.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Rusty Nelson [/FONT]
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I had never hear of that either, ...but I sure liked it!!:cool: Now, who is this Mr. Nilly you speak of? Is his first name correctly spelled William?? :D

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Nahh, They just take them apart!
Terry



Ben Hoskins said:
Hey guys, Thanks for all the advice. I placed the wood order from Classic Wood this morning.
My car is a December 1927 early A R Sport Coupe. Steve suggested I send him the old wood because some changes were made on the early models. He plans to match the old parts and make any needed adjustments.
It is good to be able to do business with people who care and take pride in their product and workmanship.

ALSO, WHO ARE THOSE TWO GUYS YOU MENTIONED--RIPPSCHITT AND BUST. DO THEY RESTORE MODEL A FORDS?

Thanks again, Ben
Click to expand...
 
That wood looks great compared to mine! I didn't have enough good wood to get top and bottom wood dimensions! The sills were so rotted that the cowl section literally fell off the dolly I had the rest of the body on. The rotted sills didn't have the substance to support the cowl. Yeah I didn't know wood can be welded to steel either. I duplicated the wood using several tools, A craftsman planer, a Grizzly table saw, A Bridgeport miller, a 6" wide Belt sander, a drill press. and a couple of hand sanders. And most importantly, a vernier caliper. It wasn't "easy", but it wasn't that hard either. But I'm sure you can see how important it is to preserve as many dimensions as possible.
Terry






Richard Wilson said:
I admit to being a member of the "get a bigger hammer" school of Model A restoration. You know our motto, "It seemed like a good ideal at the time". :)

Here is a picture of some of the original wood I removed from a Victoria. The rest was so rotted that it just crumbled and turned to dust. Funny how some of the rusted metal bolts had "welded" themselves to the wood and would not come out even when beat with a hammer.

I donated this pile of framework to a restoration shop to use as patterns for a Victoria that they were restoring for a customer. I guess it wasn't firewood after all.
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Hey Brent, My serial # is 3971 for my Sport Coupe. I do not know exactly when it was made. The body was made in Buffalo, NY according to the book. At the moment, the car is in a thousand pieces. I hope to have it on the road come fall and drive it across the country.

A lot of the parts have been replaced since new so I may never get everything back authentic.

How far along are you with the project?
Send me a few pics.

Thanks, Ben hbenjammin@yahoo.com
 
Must be a lot of cars getting wood. My son received a call today from snyders that his bottom wood for his Victoria will be another 6-8 weeks. It's already been about 8 weeks.
 
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