Wood graining

[Russ B]

Manuel, the bottom photo was just practice work as I was learning the Grain-it process. I was using several different grain patterns and colors and pin striping, nothing is like original to the best of my knowledge.

The following is my finished product on my modified 29 A cabriolet.

 

[History]

Wow Russ, that thing is beautiful!!!!

 

[Manuel]

Those interior colours look great Russ; the steering wheel, gear stick knob, dash board colours and from what I can see of the interior, look very harmonious. It's hard to believe its a Model A.

Manuel in Oz

 

[Russ B]

Those interior colours look great Russ; the steering wheel, gear stick knob, dash board colours and from what I can see of the interior, look very harmonious. It's hard to believe its a Model A.

Manuel in Oz

Thank you. I spent a lot of time testing colors and color combinations to get what I wanted. The upholstery shop had many sample books to go through as well.The gear stick knob was the only thing I had to live with, so I started with that and made sure everything was compatible with the colors in the knob. I have had the knob since I have had the car, 1958 or 1959. It is a soft stone so I sanded and polished it up. I gave the guy who cast the steering wheel rim, photos and fabric swatches, so he knew what colors to shoot for. I was a long process and i did not set any artificial deadlines. It is far from original in so many ways, but just what I wanted.

 

[jdpalmer]

I used Grain-it and it came out real good with their plate and roller and it's ford original. I have also tried with paint and strips with small brush which does good but it's far from original.
/Users/jamespalmer/Pictures/Photos Library.photoslibrary/resources/proxies/derivatives/0a/00/af1/UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_af1.jpg

 

[JayJay]

Great discussion, folks. I am working towards re-graining the moldings on my Town Sedan using the Grain-it system and feel better about biting off learning a new skill.

For you folks who have used this system: the video shows a "toning" step which to me seems to darken the basecoat and muddy up the look. (The woodgrain on my existing moldings isn't too bad but you can definitely see that 90 years and 95K miles has not been kind to it). Did you do the toning step? The Paint and Finish Guide does not mention a toning step. I'll likely try the graining with and without toning and see what I like, but to me the toned product is too dark and subtle. Or, like RussB, did you pick a basecoat, ink and pattern you liked and run with it, original be damned (RussB - it's beautiful!)?

And how about basecoat? Did you use a Grain-it basecoat or color match to the Paint and Finish Guide? Certainly a couple of rattle cans from Grain-it are cheaper and easier than color matching to a poly paint, but in the end I suppose the poly basecoat, inked and then clear-coated would be more durable.

Thanks, all.

JayJay

 

[nkaminar]

Here is more info on wood graining including the base coat and photos of the original parts. The author says he used a stiff trimmed brush and crumpled newspaper. I would like to see the results using this technique.

https://www.fordgarage.com/pages/woodgrain.htm

 

[Oldbluoval]

I once owned the original Vic shown in Vince Falters website
All woodgraining was original. The background was darker than if you just grained over the base coat. However the reverse sides of pieces appeared to be the color as shown.
Therefore, the faces had to be darkened before the graining
Yes, aging could have had its effects. But all graining was consistent

 

[1crosscut]

On what I did I didn't use the toner but did use the base coat. I liked how it turned out.

 

[Russ B]

Great discussion, folks. I am working towards re-graining the moldings on my Town Sedan using the Grain-it system and feel better about biting off learning a new skill.

For you folks who have used this system: the video shows a "toning" step which to me seems to darken the basecoat and muddy up the look. (The woodgrain on my existing moldings isn't too bad but you can definitely see that 90 years and 95K miles has not been kind to it). Did you do the toning step? The Paint and Finish Guide does not mention a toning step. I'll likely try the graining with and without toning and see what I like, but to me the toned product is too dark and subtle. Or, like RussB, did you pick a basecoat, ink and pattern you liked and runwith it, original be damned (RussB - it's beautiful!)?
And how about basecoat? Did you use a]-it basecoat or color match to the Paint and Finish Guide? Certainly a couple of rattle cans from Grain-it are cheaper and easier than color matching to a poly paint, but in the end I suppose the poly basecoat, inked and then clear-coated would be more durable.

Thanks, all.

JayJay

I spent a good part of a year practicing, testing different graining patterns, testing different bases and toners, before trying to work on curved surface





It was fun to learn a new skill, but took time before I was ready to paint the real thing