Won't start

rmyers

rmyers

Junior Member
After fighting with the radiator clearance and finally clearing it I went to start the car and now it won't start. We are getting fuel and we also have spark. We did the timing with the pin and checked the point gap. I'm not sure where else to go. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
 
It is possible you have flooded the engine while trying to start it. Open the throttle all the way with the hand control and crank on the engine. IF it is flooded the open throttle will allow enough air into the engine to clear the raw gas out.

Tom Endy
 
Universal electrical check list for "car won't start'.

Here is an all inclusive check list just keep going through the whole thing.


Some possibilities are:
1.Blown or defective fuse or fuse holder
2.Bad connections at ammeter, or ammeter itself (to find out put a jumper wire from one post of the terminal box to the other to take the ammeter out of the circuit temporarily)
3.Bad ignition switch and/or cable, or loose cable connection at switch.
4.Loose or broken wires at bottom of coil
5.Loose or broken wires inside terminal box
6.Loose, bare or broken pigtail wire under distributor plate, or wire grounding to plate or distributor body
7.Points not opening, or point arm grounding to cam due to worn rubbing block
8.Worn electrode in underside of distributor cap
9.Loose or broken high tension wire from coil to cap
10.Condenser burned out or grounding (some condensers are too long and can touch the distributor body inside)
11.Weak coil
12.Rotor not turning due to loose cam screw or bad timing gear
Ok now break out a volt meter (a light bulb can give false readings).
Start at the fuse block, you should have voltage on both sides of the fuse. If you only have voltage on one side, replace the fuse of fuse block.
Now with voltage on both sides of the fuse, move up to the junction box. There should be voltage at both terminals. If voltage is present only on one side the problem is at the ampmeter and you should Jumper the ampmeter for now.
You should have voltage on both sides of the coil. If not, remove the red wire on the coil and check again. If you now have voltage on both sides, you have a problem further on. If the voltage is still only in one side you have a bad coil.
Open the points with a piece of paper and remove the condenser. Turn the key on and you should have voltage at the points. Replace the condenser and you should still have voltage. If voltage is missing, remove the top plate and check for voltage on the bottom plate. Check is the connector from the ignition switch screwed in to far? Do you have voltage on the wire to the upper plate? Is this wire shorting to ground or broken? Are the points closing.

Let us know what you find.

Wiring diagram

 
Is there a possiblity that the distributor could be in 180 out? I looked at a drawing in a book and it showed the points at a 9 o'clock position if #1 cylinder is 12 o'clock. My points are between 10 and 11. Also one book shows the gap as being .015-.018 and another book shows it .018-.022, we have them set at .019 so will that make that big of a difference? Mike V. I will check on this stuff and get back to you. Tom it may be flooded, we smell alot of gas so I'll give that a try also.
 
I just wanted to give everyone an update. I got the car started and I didn't really do anything special. I rechecked the point gap and then it started. I have to agree with some of you, I think it was flooded. Thanks for everyones help, this is a great sight for information.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top