won't start

Woodie1

Woodie1

Well-known member
We have a 1930 Tudor which we drove about 45 miles yesterday. Today I wanted to check timing & such & thought I would twist the steering column housing slightly as it doesn't let the spark retard all the way up. After I did so, I can't get the car to start. I set the steering housing back to where I started & it still won't start. I have regapped the points at least 5 times & checked the timing & it just refuses to start. I did get one slight attempt to start & that was it. I tried rocking the Distributor cam with a screw driver with the key on & got a spark one time & nothing after that. With the key on & get spark to the point plate. We've had the car for over 50 years & I can't think of what I'm missing.
 
Sounds like an ignition problem. With the ignition on measure the voltage at the movable point with the points open and closed. With the points open you should be getting the battery voltage and with them closed it should be zero. If not zero clean or change the points.

To clean the points run a 400 grit folded wet and dry sand paper through the points with them closed. After that run some paper through to clean any grit left behind. Then snap then shut by pulling the movable point out with your finger and letting go. That will remove any remaining grit.
 
I just checked & I have 6.2 volts at the movable point arm when the points are open & I have 0 volts when the points are closed. I have also put a jumper across the ignition switch terminals & it still wouldn't start.
 
Check your bottom plate wire going to the points. Check wire going to the ignition switch behind the dash.
On spark adjustment, the connection on the steering column to the rod....the ball has to be round,not egg shaped. Also it has to be tight on the shaft. Make sure the steering column is not broken at the firewall, this is common.
On timing, make sure your timing pin is not bent.
Not a bad idea,but at night turn the ignition on and raise the hood, move the ignition cable around and look for sparks, same with wires going into the terminal box.
 
I would think that if there is 6 volts at the points, then the bottom plate wire is good. Steering column not broke. Timing pin not bent.
 
I replaced the coil last fall for a hotter one. Still, if it were bad I don't think I'd have spark to the points.
 
Woodie1 said:
I replaced the coil last fall for a hotter one. Still, if it were bad I don't think I'd have spark to the points.
Click to expand...

Check for spark at the plug... Check for carbon arking at the coil and distributor cap (easier to see when it is dark).
 
Found the problem finally. I thought the points didn't look bad but apparently they were. Changed them out & it fired up. Thanks for all the hints as to the problem.
 
Woodie1 said:
I just checked & I have 6.2 volts at the movable point arm when the points are open & I have 0 volts when the points are closed.
Click to expand...

Sometimes a MM can fool you, try testing w/a 6 volt test light, (which actually draws some current)
 
Could also be the scale used on the multimeter. The ohm setting at the right scale should be able to pick up on the points not conducting as well as they should.

He stated that he sometimes got a spark so the points were intermittent. It could also mean that the points were conducting when he got the zero volt reading.
 
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