Won't Start....

Yes, the key has been unknowingly left on until the battery is dead, and perhaps this will have burned the coil out? And yes, don't know why a coil would ever be mounted upside down. I'm a poor electrician, but eventually I figure things out....
 
The normal way a coil is mounted is with the the high tension output at the top. The Model A has the coil mounted with the high tension output at the bottom so it is considered up side down. That is why it is important to get a coil that is designed for the Model A. Change out the condensor first. It is less expensive than the coil. There are good ones available.
 
Scotts216 said:
Yes, the key has been unknowingly left on until the battery is dead, and perhaps this will have burned the coil out? And yes, don't know why a coil would ever be mounted upside down. I'm a poor electrician, but eventually I figure things out....
Click to expand...
I've been battling a similar scenario this week with my 28 Truck. I'm usually really good at figuring out why Model 'A's don't start but this week was a real challenge. I determined it was without a doubt an electrical problem. Test lights seemed to indicate good electrical connections to the distributor all except when I tested the coil wire (from coil) to a stud bolt test. Where you turn on the key, crank the motor and a good spark jumps from the coil wire to a head bolt. All week I kept getting no spark in this test. (even though I had new coil and a new distributor/condensor)

Yesterday I finally made headway by taking apart the terminal box and removing all the wires and inspected them. Then I noticed the connector ends and washers had some rust and crud on them as they hadn't been removed in quite some time. I took a dremel with a little spinning brush and cleaned up both terminal box bolts real good and cleaned all the ends. BINGO ... now I have spark. This might not do you any good but it's worth a try and if nothing else, your car will like it. It was a fun week. Working on these old cars sure is enjoyable.
Good luck.
 
Two points. First, a little electrical grease will keep the contacts from corroding. I use electrical grease that has some copper in it.

Second, voltage is not current. With no current flowing the voltage will be correct but if there is some resistance, like corroded contacts, the voltage will be low when current is flowing. This will lead to a poor spark.
 
Yes, cleaning contacts a good idea..... I had a 68 Mustang years ago that wouldn't start. Spent countless days working on it, and eventually took it to a shop. One fuse in the ignition system was corroded and once cleaned it fired right up......
 
Also you might try pouring a bit of oil into each cylinder once you know you're getting spark and the timing is set correctly.
 
Well gentlemen, victory.... Man has once again triumphed over machine! The car runs again....

It was a bad coil...... Put in a new coil and it fires on the first turn of the crank. I finally realized that I had voltage to the coil and then no spark from the coil, so it HAD to be the coil..... Must have been the secondary winding, as the primary tested at 1.4 ohms.
The bottom of the old coil was bulging, so I assume it must mean that the oil had boiled??? Nonetheless the issue is solved.

I would like to express my heartfelt thanks to all who replied to this post and who made comments and suggestions to help me.

I wish the very best to you all...... Scott in Colorado
 
Glad you found the problem, may help someone in the future if they have similar problems.Some times an update is never posted wonder if they ever solved problem or got rid of car.
 
hope all the solutions here help me solve a similar problem .at least i know have some possible solutions.thanks all
 
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