Won't start- what else to check?-update running!

Brian SATX

Brian SATX

Well-known member
Getting good spark to plugs, and points. Fuel getting to Tilly carb. Bowl is full. Passages seem to be clear. Plugs are dry. Compression good. Timing is right on. what is missing? Car has not been run for about two years.
 
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Re: Won't start- what else to check?

Gasoline needs to get into the cylinders to run. give it a shot of starting fluid as a test. take a good look at this product!
 

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Re: Won't start- what else to check?

if plugs are dry sounds like no fuel into the cyls.
see #2
have someone spray some starting fluid (which is ether) into the carb while you try to start it to see what happens. this takes 2 ppl since the carb is updraft.
The person spraying the ether needs to be careful in case of a backfire, they could burn their hand. Just spray a little and wear a leather glove; but the engine must be cranking over when he sprays it so it can be sucked in
 
Re: Won't start- what else to check?

Here is a general check list for a no start condition;

Some possibilities are:
1.Blown or defective fuse (use of a fuse is an aftermarket item)
2.Bad connections at ammeter, or ammeter itself (t0 find out put a jumper wire from one post of the terminal box to the other to take the ammeter out of the circuit temporarily)
3.Bad ignition switch and/or cable, or loose cable connection at switch.
4.Loose or broken wires at bottom of coil
5.Loose or broken wires inside terminal box
6.Loose, bare or broken pigtail wire under distributor plate, or wire grounding to plate or distributor body
7.Points not opening, or point arm grounding to cam due to worn rubbing block
8.Worn electrode in underside of distributor cap
9.Loose or broken high tension wire from coil to cap
10.Condenser burned out or grounding (some condensers are too long and can touch the distributor body inside)
11.Weak coil
12.Rotor not turning due to loose cam screw or bad timing gear.


Ok now break out a volt meter (a light bulb can give false readings).
Start at the fuse block, you should have voltage on both sides of the fuse. If you only have voltage on one side, replace the fuse of fuse block.

Now with voltage on both sides of the fuse, move up to the junction box. There should be voltage at both terminals. If voltage is present only on one side the problem is at the ampmeter and you should Jumper the ampmeter for now.
You should have voltage on both sides of the coil. If not,
remove the red wire on the coil and check again. If you now have voltage on both sides, you have a problem further on. If the voltage is still only in one side you have a bad coil.

Open the points with a piece of paper and remove the condenser. Turn the key on and you should have voltage at the points.
Replace the condenser and you should still have voltage.

If voltage is missing, remove the top plate and check for voltage on the bottom plate.

Check is the connector from the ignition switch screwed in to far? Do you have voltage on the wire to the upper plate?

Is this wire shorting to ground or broken?
 
Re: Won't start- what else to check?

Hey Mike, his plugs are dry, He is not getting gasoline into the combustion chambers, ignition won't solve that problem. I would check and clean the carb and do a compression check.
 
Re: Won't start- what else to check?

I am going through the same problem now. I have a new carb that I put on about 3 years ago and never started it. I just got the radiator down and tried last night to start it. gas flow good( fresh gas ) getting spark at the plugs. I put a small amount of gas in where the vaccum plug is and it started right up took gas and runs great. let it set over night and nothing now.
 
Re: Won't start- what else to check?

steved454 said:
I am going through the same problem now. I have a new carb that I put on about 3 years ago and never started it. I just got the radiator down and tried last night to start it. gas flow good( fresh gas ) getting spark at the plugs. I put a small amount of gas in where the vaccum plug is and it started right up took gas and runs great. let it set over night and nothing now.
Click to expand...

Have you removed the drain plug on the carb bottom and let gas run for 30 seconds?
Do you have gas dripping if you pull the choke while cranking the engine?
 
Re: Won't start- what else to check?

I had this same probablout a few years ago wanted to pull my hair out of my head until it was suggested the passages in my carb were blocked with setiment and to drill them out and replace the freeze plugs. I did this and bam she's started up and ran Pissa. If your constantly running it the setimet will just pass though and burned up and blow. Out the exaust if you let it sit and the carb drys out it will turn rock hard and start oxidizing and will expand to fully block passages. And honestly it dosnt even take much of a block to lean it out enough to not run. I could sprey carb cleaner though all mine but it wasn't enough.
 
Re: Won't start- what else to check?

I posted a while back about a Tudor that would not start. Finally got back up there. Put a rebuilt Zenith on to replace the apparent good Tilly and it fired right up. The only thing bad about the Tilly was that the bottom drain plug threads were stripped. Maybe not allowing the right amount of suction to get gas to the plugs. Thanks for all the suggestions.
 
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