Won't run

OK. I had exactly the same issues on a friends car. Fuel flow, ignition was checked. I found that the manifold gaskets were shot., I replaced them with the copper filled gasket and torqued in steps to 45 ft-lbs. Problem solved.....re-torqued after a thermal cycle and all is good.
 
wwirz Hey thanks.
One other thing to investigate!

Did the car not run well when cold? This one runs really nice until up to temp?
 
Car ran when cold. When it heated up the engine ran rough and then quit. Had to wait a while for a restart
 
wwirz in trying to get to the bottom of my issues.....yours backfired, jumped, hopped then stopped running?
I could restart it right away but with the same backfire, jump, hop, quit issues but managed to get it back to the garage from a block and a half away.
 
I have had this problem in the past, it was due to a failing of the secondary winding in the ignition coil. Do you have a spare coil you can change it out with temporarily?
 
Still working on this issue.
We have replaced all the ignition wiring.
Re-timed several times.
Replace the bad fuel gauge float.
Still have not had a chance to check compression.
We are thinking possible fuel issues.
unscrew the fuel line at the carb and there doesn't seem to be a very good stream.
The tank doesn't look too bad.
We are going to drain the tank, remove the non oem shut off valve and replace it and the line to the firewall and recheck fuel flow.
Next if t hat is not the issue is to check the compression, then if not it, pull the valve cover off and see what's going on there, then if not that pull the intake/exhaust manifolds and check for leaks.
 
Do you have or have access to a small gas tank (think lawn mower size) that you can temporarily hang from the radiator support rods and hook up a fuel line from that to the carburetor? I like to keep the temporary fuel line sloped so it runs down hill all the way to the carburetor.
 
Have you tried a visual spark tester at the dist. cap? That will tell you if the spark is failing and help narrow down where to test. A propane hose into the carb will let you bypass the fuel supply and the carb. Turn on the propane gently when it starts acting up.
If neither of these tests makes it run better it may be a sticky valve or valves. :)
 
Update:
Well, finally found the issue.
We removed the non stock fuel shutoff valve and replaced everything with a stock shutoff valve, tank filter and line to the fuel filter bowl.
Fired the car up and let it come up to temp. Rolled out to the street and ran up and down for 20 minutes and no issues.
Looking at the non stock fuel shutoff valve, it was full of packed rust silt from the tank.
The tank filter is above the bottom of the tank and hopefully will allow the car to run well enough until the owner decides to have the tank flushed.
 
2935Ford, I have not needed to do this, but others have applied neodymium magnets to the rear face or the bottom of the tank to capture small pieces of metal in the tank. There is also a "Dirty Leg" setup for under the tank described on this forum and the Ford Garage. It would trap the particles as they came out of the tank. After a while, several tanks of fuel, the tank has to some degree cleaned itself.


Congrats! and Thank you for coming back with the results.
 
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