Won`t start

It turns over slowly with 6v. It turns over slowly with 12V. It might be worth checking all your battery, solenoid, and earth connections. Don't forget the starter must be well earthed to the engine block. If the starter and block have been painted they will not be earthing properly.
Is the battery earthed direct to the block or the frame? If the frame, does the engine have a ground strap to the frame too?
Try feeding the starter independantly of the ignition, so the drag from the starter does not pull the ignition voltage down.
Try cranking with one plug wire connected to a spare plug laid on the head - does it spark?

Are the plugs wet?

Keep going, I'm sure it will run.

Mart.
 
It wasn't confirmed if there was spark. It should have run on the starting fluid if there was. Is the firing order correct? The cylinders are numbered different than SBC. Like Mike says these engines are usually easy to get running, good or bad.
 
When I dropped my engine in last time, I had slow cranking which was funny since I had a good 6V battery and it always cranked OK. Eventually I saw the throttle pushrod smoking. I had forgotten to hook up the engine ground and it was grounding through the throttle rod!:D

Another time I somehow twisted something inside the starter while putting it under the car and it would hardly turn over. I had apparently internally shorted the starter which was easily corrected.

Both of these are cases where trying 18V would have been Very Bad.
 
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you must have the timing correct.....turn the engine over by hand till the mark lines up..then make sure your distributer is in correctly...very impotant that the distributer is installed where #1 is at number one position....many times this can be the problem
 
Well I let it sit for a week with MMO in it,cranked it over without the plugs and got the MMo out installed new plugs and she lit off right away and ran like a champ!So thanx for all the help it is much appreciated. Pete.
 
bottomfeeder pete said:
Well I let it sit for a week with MMO in it,cranked it over without the plugs and got the MMo out installed new plugs and she lit off right away and ran like a champ!So thanx for all the help it is much appreciated. Pete.
Click to expand...

Now you know WHY its called Marvelous Mystery Oil! :D
 
Let all drink a toast for another MMO save. I'll put an extra shot of it in my coffee in the morning. G.M. p s put some in every tank of gas or the stickey valves will return.
 
What are your thoughts about adding it to the engine oil? I use MMO alot in my older engines as a gas additive but never was sure about adding it to the oil....
 
I don't use MMO in the oil just the gas. Use a good oil and it don't need any additives due to what's in the oil and the frequency of changes. I have used Castrol 20/50 for well over 30 years but due to a recent oil study I swithched to 15/40 Valvoline Cummins Blue for my diesels. I liked the additives which include zinc and molly so I decided to try it in the old Fords and put in the 39 conv and P/U on the last oil change. I didn't notice any change change in oil pressure going from 20/50 to 15/40. Attached is the oil report I based my decision on. Oil is a personal choice and you have to make your own choice. G.M.
 

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Pete, the more that you run your motor the better it will run, it is like when you first get out of bed in the morning, the more i move the better i feel!
 
I agree, run castrol in my "modern" vehicles..., and run Shell Rotella in all my bikes and the flathead V8 bike, it is highly recommended for bikes by the Chicago Vintage Motorcycle guys, as it does not contain friction modifiers that can mess up the wet clutches in a lot of vintage bikes, and it is way less expensive than "cycle" oil.
 
Click on the attachment of my last post to find out about differant oils and what's in them. G.M.
 
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