Wobbly rear axle

Every so often, grab your rear wheel and try to see if it rocks. Jacked up is better, but not necessarily needed. I do the same on the front, with my top hand through the wheel on the backing plate. That test is for checking wheel bearing vs loose kingpin.
 
cuda said:
Do you need loctite even with the cotter pin?
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The Loctite is not to stop the nut coming undone. Loctite 243 is for taking up the slack in keyways and splines. It does a great job at it too but not so much for holding a nut. It seems there is a product in their range to do just about anything, all you have to do is make sure you choose the right one.
BTW, what you guys call cotter pins are elsewhere referred to as split pins. Cotter pins are like the two in the front axle that hold the king pin. Just another term that has been corrupted over a lengthy period till it comes to be accepted to mean something else. A bit like "ring gear". (That belongs on the flywheel.)
 
cuda said:
Is the torque on the front hub also supposed to be 100 ft-lb?
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Defiantly not. Just tight enough to take the slack out of the bearing. If you don't know how to do that get someone to help you and show you how to do it.
 
wmws said:
Defiantly not. Just tight enough to take the slack out of the bearing. If you don't know how to do that get someone to help you and show you how to do it.
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It’s easy to do. There are a number of posts explaining how to do it. Enjoy.
 
Synchro909 said:
The Loctite is not to stop the nut coming undone. Loctite 243 is for taking up the slack in keyways and splines. It does a great job at it too but not so much for holding a nut. It seems there is a product in their range to do just about anything, all you have to do is make sure you choose the right one.
BTW, what you guys call cotter pins are elsewhere referred to as split pins. Cotter pins are like the two in the front axle that hold the king pin. Just another term that has been corrupted over a lengthy period till it comes to be accepted to mean something else. A bit like "ring gear". (That belongs on the flywheel.)
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Split pin does make more sense.
 
cuda said:
Sounds like the front ones are tightened like modern day cars. I can handle that.
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Grease the bearings, snug the nut while spinning the wheel, then back off the nut and very lightly snug it no tighter than the weight of a 10" adjustable wrench hanging on the nut at the 3 o'clock position. Then insert the cotter pin. Better half a flat looser than tighter if the nut slot doesn't line up.
 
I packed that rear bearing full of grease today and bolted it on. Put 100lb on the nut. No wobble at all! Guess it just needed tightened. I still need to get the lugs sorted but I’m glad the rest is all good. Thanks to everyone for the input!!
 
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