Wits End

steammech50

steammech50

Member
Last year had the engine rebuilt in my 31 Tudor. All was going well until at 1000 miles it started loseing water,pulled the head too replace the head gasket. Was then I saw vertical lines in #4 cylinder,when the piston was pulled found galling on back side like it had overheated.After measureing cylinder found it too be .005 over so we can't hone out the lines,have too rebore,now at + .080.Had engine rebored ,new pistons an rings,put it back in the car,ran well for 50 miles or so when it devoleped a noise in #4 again.Pulled pan thought mabey rod bearing was loose,found everything fine on bottom end,pulled the head saw same vertical lines in #4,was set up with .003 piston clearance this time ,when the piston was pulled have the same galling started on the piston again,was able too clean it up with scotchbrite,but may have too lightly hone cylinder.
Even though the engine was supposed too have been hot tanked it sure seems too be more heat on the back side of #4,so I guess my queston is what too do about it,is there some way I can clean out the water passage on the back of the block without harming the main bearings ?
Don't think it's a timeing issue as it was set using L.A's red book, water temps always ran 160-180,geting tired of pulling this engine out ! :confused:
 
Fill the engine with evaporust and let it sit for a while. I'd rather try that and spend the $60 than pull the engine again.
 
Someone mentioned here a while back about using an old speedometer cable and a drill motor to chase rust in the far corners of a block. I did this with a cylinder head and it got a lot of rust out. Just a thought. . . .

Dick
 
Can you remove rust when the head is off? Maybe chisel it out and then clean it out? I like the evaporust idea.

Mike
 
I would think that NOW would be the time to go the engine rebuilder.
Personally I would have gone when the first teardown occurred.........

Good Luck
Paul in CT
 
I think Menards and Fleet Farm both carry Evaporust, and it's cheaper than Harbor Freight. One gallon might be enough to fill the block.
 
steammech50 said:
Last year had the engine rebuilt in my 31 Tudor. All was going well until at 1000 miles it started loseing water,pulled the head too replace the head gasket. Was then I saw vertical lines in #4 cylinder,when the piston was pulled found galling on back side like it had overheated.After measureing cylinder found it too be .005 over so we can't hone out the lines,have too rebore,now at + .080.Had engine rebored ,new pistons an rings,put it back in the car,ran well for 50 miles or so when it devoleped a noise in #4 again.Pulled pan thought mabey rod bearing was loose,found everything fine on bottom end,pulled the head saw same vertical lines in #4,was set up with .003 piston clearance this time ,when the piston was pulled have the same galling started on the piston again,was able too clean it up with scotchbrite,but may have too lightly hone cylinder.
Even though the engine was supposed too have been hot tanked it sure seems too be more heat on the back side of #4,so I guess my queston is what too do about it,is there some way I can clean out the water passage on the back of the block without harming the main bearings ?
Don't think it's a timeing issue as it was set using L.A's red book, water temps always ran 160-180,geting tired of pulling this engine out ! :confused:
Click to expand...
Pulled engine out early this week,dismantled same.Filled block with Evao-Rust,let set for three days,yesterday tried too run a choke cable on a drill through the water passegs ,all seemed fine except around the back of # 4 could not get around it,on the inside of the valve chamber the block sealer was discolered,sure sign of over heating,so in desperation I cut a hole in the water passage with a 1 .25 hole saw found corner blocked solid with rust,it took a small cold chisel too knock a hole through it,so now have it all cleaned out,have too J.B weld the plug back in an start over.Hated too cut a hole in block but didn't know what else too do !Going too take block back to the builder and hone too .004 clearance,and hope this cures the piston galling problem.
 
how about getting it hot tanked ""properly""?
i would never cut a hole in an engine block

good luck
 
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Mitch//pa said:
how about getting it hot tanked ""properly""?
i would never cut a hole in an engine block

good luck
Click to expand...

X 2

Wish you'd have asked here before cutting a hole in the block. Long thin chisels could have been made to knock the rust loose. Then more Rust remover could have been used.

Hot tanking should remove the rust, but would have also destroyed the babbit.
 
steammech50 said:
. . . I cut a hole in the water passage with a 1 .25 hole saw found corner blocked solid with rust,it took a small cold chisel too knock a hole through it,so now have it all cleaned out. . .
Click to expand...

Did you take any pictures of your block surgery? Please post them!

I'll send you a PM with a picture showing what the water passages look like under the head with the deck cut off.
 
Thanks for posting this information and update.
I will say that you are a man of action, and I admire your actions AND results, which sound good! Like Mike, I'd appreciate picuture of your 'surgery' and of what you found inside.
I am NOT sure of where you made the hole, but I have another alternative suggestion / remedy for YOU , rather than just epoxying the plug back in.
You might investigate putting (epoxy/braze/glue/whatever) a nipple outlet/inlet there now that the area is open. This would run water back there via piping and surely keep the rear of the engine cooler, eh ? Just trying to make lemonade out of lemon handed to you :) !

NOTE:
There have been guys who have done innovative water cooling upgrades to side of block to improve cooling system circulation. Some have even done as your have done.....but, to the back of the head to improve water circulation. heck, you've done the hard part, IMO;) !
 
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MikeK said:
Did you take any pictures of your block surgery? Please post them!

I'll send you a PM with a picture showing what the water passages look like under the head with the deck cut off.
Click to expand...

I guess the worst part of all this is a little over a year ago this was an untouched stock car !Because of my poor choice of engine builders,I now am .080 over stock with an 1.25 hole in my block.Belive you me I'm not at all happy with any of this,but I guess I will have too suck it up an move on !
Unfortunately for all here who want pitcures I was too busy with the task at hand and did not take any,pluged the hole up yesterday an put two coats oj J.B on it .Will go out this morning an sand it down some ,if it looks good,will re-paint.
Would like too thank all the folks on here for the help you offered.I know this repair seemed kind of rash too some of you,but it wasen't worth a damn like it was,after all it's all about the ride !
 
A little update,JB Weld did it's job,engine back together in the car,fired right up,but still have clicking noise in # 4 cylinder.Pulled pan an head yesterday,sounded like wrist pin bushing was loose,or piston slap,even though every thing was new.Could find nothing wrong looking at it until I micked the piston,found too be -.015 to .018 undersize,aparently the heat from the pluged water jacket collapsed the piston skirt,as per my engine builder,we learn something new every day !So had too order a new set of pistons,can't buy just one,should have them in two weeks,U.S made,don't stock,made when when ordered,hopefully this will cure my problems,may get to ride before the end of summer,will keep you posted !
 
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