Wishbone ball washer repair

ivoryjohn

Senior Member
My car just got Flathead Ted's brakes and a new engine. When the car came home it had a new kind of wheel wobble not induced by bumps. The old girl wobbled real badly on the left front wheel and it started from a dead stop and continued to about 15mph. It was bad enough that people pointed it out to me as they drove passed, as if I didn't know.

We checked the usual complaints, wheel bearings, tire pressure, toe-in, drag link tie-rod adjustment, and loose bolts on the steering box. As the engine had been out I asked if the Wishbone had been dropped and it had not. Still, I wondered if the cupped washer I had at one time installed been removed. I drove it home 85 miles and had no problems except when I dropped my speed to 10mph or so.

When I got home I dropped the wishbone and sure enough the washer was missing. I cupped a new one, folded a new piece of washcloth to to place on top of the ball and buttoned it up. Problem solved! No wobble either caused by bumps or from a stop. Why...? Before you jump in I got 4000 miles out of this set up before this.

How is it that a half sphere piece of metal .074" thick placed in the bottom cup of the assembly makes any difference and solves so dramatic a problem?

Common sense says to me the piece shim should be on the back of the ball to increase the camber angle of the axle. My ball is worn noticeably on the top and has worn smooth shoulders on either side of the ball, left and right. Wouldn't it seem reasonable that the shim would replace the worn on top area as the bottom of the ball seems okay. Go figure?

Lastly I looked at the replacement balls available and marvel at it. If a simple .074" thick washer placed in the right place solves the problem Imagine how deadly accurate a welder would have to be to get that replacement ball in the exact right place, at the exact right angle and length to work as it is supposed to work.
 
Yes, it IS amazing.

Had a similar situation on our car, but because the castle nuts were tightened by a few more threads. WOW, thought we were gonna die when I stepped on the brakes at the bottom of the hill! Lessons learned.

Backed them off again, and all was well. Have since done a little work to the ball joing to tighten it up more and be able to get it tight.
 
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I'm a novice welder and I made a jig to check for ball roundness. I posted a picture of this on a previous thread. Just a 3" x 6" piece of plywood with a 1 1/2" hole at the edge and a 1 1/2" hole in the middle.I welded the ball a little and ground a little. Welded a little and ground a little til I got it accepable. I'm pleased with the results.
 
I'm a novice welder and I made a jig to check for ball roundness. I posted a picture of this on a previous thread. Just a 3" x 6" piece of plywood with a 1 1/2" hole at the edge and a 1 1/2" hole in the middle.I welded the ball a little and ground a little. Welded a little and ground a little til I got it accepable. I'm pleased with the results.

Hadn't thought of a jig but I can see that was removable that could duplicate the exact position of the original ball would solve the problem of positioning the new ball in exactly the same place as the original. Good on ya! Thanks.

Now to find a real craftsman of a welder. Think I know one.
 
John, my "Why" explanation is the ball is usually worn flat on the bottom and tapers back to the 1½" diameter. The washer fills the area where there is avoid but it scrapes off the washer's thickness as it rotates. Once it is thin enough it will push it out.

I too weld up all of the balls and metalfinish them smooth again to a 1.500" diameter and they last well provided they are lubed. It does not take any type of fixture (although we use one to be more efficient) as the intent is to make the ball round again in both directions.

One thought for folks to ponder is we all seemingly complain about rear mains leaking (so we install a modern seal to prevent this) yet how does this radius rod ball get its lubrication?? :rolleyes:

.
 
The original metal to metal design on the radius ball was not one of Fords better ideas. Ford changed to the rubber ball cover in 1932 and used it through 1948 until the radius ball type front end was discontinued. I've used the replacement rubber ball for over 50 years on all of my model A's and never had a problem. The cupped washer is only a short term patch.
 
Yesterday I put 160 miles on the car and the "washer fix" faded slowly and the wobble resumed to a lesser degree. Perhaps some of you caught it but I was mistakenly putting a pad of folded washcloth on top of the ball to replace what I thought was a missing felt pad it is supposed to have.

Duh! the felt goes on the inside of the bell housing and is held in place by the rod that aligns the bolts the assembly attache to. There was a pad of cloth before so I put one back.

On my drive I went to see my guru of all things Model A and he checked my drag link and found it to be quite loose as were the connections on my tie rod. He further adjusted the steering box, tightened my pittman arm and my problem went away with a proper and understandable adjustment.

I hope that I didn't mislead anyone into thinking that a cupped washer was the end all repair. It helped and worked for 50 miles but began to fade after that. The washer is still in place and is helping the other adjustments correct a problem with many causes.
 
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