Wiring

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ModelAArmy

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I need to re-do some tail light wiring and bought model A wire and bullet ends. Do I just strip wire and crimp bullet ends on or is soldering required. Thanks
 
There are bullet ends that have crimp fittings, they are available at most auto parts stores (check to be sure they work with your female connectors). They are unsightly because they have plastic coverings over where you crimp. But the ones you get from the Model A vendors must be soldered on. Strip a bit of insulation from the end, push the bare wire into the connector, then heat up the connector and feed solder through the open end of the connector. Very quick and secure.

JayJay
 
I'm thinking the factory soldered the bullet connectors. By far the best method, especially if you ever need to unplug them from the harness.
 
If you want to get really technical, crimping with the proper tool and connectors that MATCH THE TOOL, is the best method. It actually fusion welds the connector to the wire.

Other than that, any old pliers crimp and some solder will most likely last forever on a model A.
 
Unless you plan to disconnect the wires or are a sticker for originality, modern crimp connectors using the proper ratching tool is the best. Solder will wick up the wires and cause a stress riser. The proper crimp is air tight to keep moisture and corrosion out.

If using the original bullet ends, solder.
 
The old Fords used a bullet male terminal of specific size that was made from thin copper sheet and tin plated. Most were four way crimped down in the locking groove around the tip. These old type terminals are not reproduced as far as I know. Modern ones are machined from brass tube. These can not be crimped. Some vendors have terminals made from thin brass sheet and can be crimped but soldering generally gives a more secure joint. The brass types don't crimp as well as the old tin plated copper ones. Most of the new harnesses come with the terminals already attached.
 
I bought this kit. As Pete said in post #5, matching bullet ends & crimp tool is the way to go. I haven't had any of these come loose. I'm not the best as soldering and whenever I do they always come loose.
 

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FAA states the aircraft wiring should be crimped at two places on thermal. Solder makes wire brittle but we are just dealing with Model A wiring, I use crimped wiring only because I’m too lazy to soldier.
 
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Most aircraft systems are either 12 or 24 volts so they can and do use smaller gauge wire. With 16 gauge or larger wire, a soldered joint is less apt to crack unless the wire is worked around by some form of movement. With modern lead free solder a joint is more resistive of corrosion as well. A lot depends on how well the car is sheltered. Tail light wires are likely the most vulnerable to the affects of corrosion. Original type terminals were designed for crimping but soldering them too is an extra measure of security.
 
I,m a retired Air Force and A&P certified aircraft mech. Aircraft use crimps on wires. Solder will vibrate by stiffing wire by wicking up the wire. On any wire connect use heat shrink to minimize and/or Liquid tape to reduce wire end stress, they sell at Walmart in the auto elect. section. Makes a water resenting connection.
 
I use uninsulated crimp fittings with heat shrink. No solder.
This is a under dash panel in my AV8. Retired A and P also.
To connect stock on your A takes a special small bullet that solders to wire as mentioned. You could also substitute modern male and female crimp connectors if you do no mind the look.
 

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