Wiring my 51 F1
- Thread starter jtminor
- Start date
1948F-1Pickup
Well-known member
You can get the original style cloth-covered wiring harness from Sacramento Vintage. That's one way of getting it done......
https://www.vintageford.com/sect_search.cfm?Line=1948-66 Pickup&Category=Wiring- Stock 1948-52
https://www.vintageford.com/sect_search.cfm?Line=1948-66 Pickup&Category=Wiring- Stock 1948-52
Flathead Fever
Well-known member
I would buy a 1951 Ford truck shop manual that has the wiring diagrams. You are going to need the manual for all the other stuff too. That should be a very simple truck to wire if you just do one circuit at a time. charging, ignition, lighting... I'm sure you can buy reproduction wiring for it if you want to stay with the original cloth wiring. If you are going to restore the truck that is what you will need to go. That truck was 6V "positive" ground unlike modern 12V negative ground systems. If you are not restoring it then I would wire it 12V negative ground. You will need to make some changes to convert it to 12V but it's no big deal. If you do decide to make your own wiring, run everything inside of protective conduit. I like to use asphalt cloth conduit on the old cars instead of that split plastic loom. Grommets are a must anytime you run wiring through sheet a metal hole. Wavy star washers under the ground connections. Make it all look nice and neat.
The biggest thing I see guys do wrong is crimping the connectors. There are two types of crimpers. You want the good one that makes the deep dimple, and you want the dimple to push the connectors' ends down into the wire like a factory connector. That tightens the connection. If you dimple it any other spot but the top it opens up the split in the top of the connector and weakens the connection.
The biggest thing I see guys do wrong is crimping the connectors. There are two types of crimpers. You want the good one that makes the deep dimple, and you want the dimple to push the connectors' ends down into the wire like a factory connector. That tightens the connection. If you dimple it any other spot but the top it opens up the split in the top of the connector and weakens the connection.
51504bat
Well-known member
Several very good vendors over original wiring harnesses for your p/u. My recommendation for an original harness is YnZ Yesterdays Parts.
YnZs Yesterdays Parts; Manufacturer of Classic and Antique Automotive Wiring Harnesses (ynzyesterdaysparts.com)
Another option for less money is a universal kit. If you decide to go the universal route and are staying 6 volt make sure the universal kit has the heavier wires for 6 volt. Rebel Wire offers a USA made 6 volt universal kit.
Rebel Wire .:. Wire Kits for Real Rods
YnZs Yesterdays Parts; Manufacturer of Classic and Antique Automotive Wiring Harnesses (ynzyesterdaysparts.com)
Another option for less money is a universal kit. If you decide to go the universal route and are staying 6 volt make sure the universal kit has the heavier wires for 6 volt. Rebel Wire offers a USA made 6 volt universal kit.
Rebel Wire .:. Wire Kits for Real Rods
Seth Swoboda
Well-known member
Rewiring a car with the original style wire harnesses is an easy task. On a prewar car with the front seat removed it should take a day at the most. Pickups are easy.
I would just add that if you decide not to use a premade harness do yourself a favor and get a good crimping tool, as suggested in an earlier post. Look for a good brand and definitely controlled cycle, meaning the tool will not allow you to finish the crimp until proper pressure has been applied. Brands to look for are Panduit, AMP, Klein, Thomas & Betts. New ones can be spendy but used should be fine and you wont regret it. It should look something like this:
